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Routes in North Face

Burley Dudes T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Clear Lycra T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Cup of Java S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
El Nino T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Platte Magic T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Traditionalists at Play TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Traditionalists at Work S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Jingus TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 403 total, 4/month
Shared By: slim on Jul 21, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Clear Lycra is a very good, pretty long, steep slab route on nice rock. As with all of the routes on this wall, the first bolt is up there a ways, and continuously difficult climbing is found well above the bolts.

Begin from the bergshrund-like rock gully and carefully edge, smedge, and smear past the first 2 bolts (this felt like the crux). Above the 2nd bolt, angle up and left on easier climbing (Hubbel's blue book shows this as up and right) to the 3rd bolt. The climbing gets less steep above the 3rd bolt, but is still fairly continuous in the 5.9 range. Hubbel's book shows a bolted anchor to the right, but I didn't see it. Instead, there is a fairly stout juniper on a ledge up to the right.

Location

Clear Lycra is the [2nd] left-most route on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall.

Scramble up a rock gully at the base of the wall (kind of like a rock bergschrund). Hubbel's guide shows bolted anchors at the top, but they aren't there. There is a sturdy juniper to the right, but you will need webbing and biners if you want to rap. Or, you can walk left on the ledge and hike down. Or, you can traverse the ledge farther to the right to a 2 bolt anchor (old buttonheads and/or Stardryvens) which will require new webbing.

Protection

5 good bolts if I remember correctly. Continuous, 5.9 to 5.10ish climbing is encountered well above the bolts.

Photos

Jason Denley
CO, AK
 
Jason Denley   CO, AK
 
Holy hard slab (for me)! The guys that put up these routes had some major huevos to bolt these ground up! Props/super impressive. Had fun climbing the routes on this side working on foot work. Great views! The route to the right of this has very rusted SMC hangers. I took a close look at one, and I was able to spin the bolt. I personally wouldn't trust them. Oct 5, 2016
slim

 
slim    
 
This route is currently the 2nd from the left (as Ralph pointed out). When I first posted these routes, "Cup of Java", which is now the leftmost route, didn't exist. Feb 21, 2016
Ralph Kolva
Evergreen, CO
  5.11- PG13
Ralph Kolva   Evergreen, CO
  5.11- PG13
2nd bolted line from the left (left line is not currently in the DB). Gave this a rating of 11- as it felt harder than the 11b Way Jingus. Fell at the 4th bolt multiple time (lots of lichen probably contributed). Apr 12, 2015
Kurt Ross
Boulder, colorado
Kurt Ross   Boulder, colorado