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Routes in North Face

Burley Dudes T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Clear Lycra T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Cup of Java S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
El Nino T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Platte Magic T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Traditionalists at Play TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Traditionalists at Work S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Jingus TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft
FA: Tim 'the hudge' Hudgel and Carl Rasmussen (per Hubbel's old white book)
Page Views: 514 total, 6/month
Shared By: slim on Jul 21, 2010 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Another Tim Hudgel slab classic, this is a great slab route. This is the 4th route from the right on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall.

Start up on easy climbing with good edges and ledges to clip the first bolt. Head upwards past another 7 bolts with terrific climbing and numerous cruxy spots. I thought this route was a fair bit easier than Hammerhead but no less classic. There seemed to be more stances to re-group and recover. It is definitely better protected, but the average climber will still probably be uncomfortable at times.

Location

This is the [4th] route from the left on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall. Approach up the rock gully.

Protection

8 good bolts. Hubbel's book shows bolted anchors up to the left (not there). There is a sturdy juniper (needs webbing and rings) or old buttonhead/Stardryve bolted anchor to the right 30 feet (needs new webbing). Also, you can hike off along the ledge system to the right.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10b PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10b PG13
This route definitely feels easier than Hammerhead but is still a difficult slab. Feb 27, 2016
slim

 
slim    
 
This route is currently the 4th from the left (as Ralph pointed out). When I first posted these routes, "Cup of Java", which is now the left most route, didn't exist. Feb 21, 2016
Ralph Kolva
Evergreen, CO
  5.10b PG13
Ralph Kolva   Evergreen, CO
  5.10b PG13
I think this is the 4th bolted line from the left or the first bolted line left of Platte Magic. One old bolt with a home made hanger just below the juniper on the ledge. Apr 12, 2015