Avg: 3.3 from 7 votes
Routes in North Face
|Burley Dudes T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R|
|Clear Lycra T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Cup of Java S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|El Nino T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Platte Magic T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Traditionalists at Play TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X|
|Traditionalists at Work S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Way Jingus TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft|
|FA:||John Bissell, Dave Field, and Ernie Moskovics, 1987|
|Page Views:||596 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||slim on Jul 21, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route should be called hammertoes, cause your feet are going to get crippled. Now that I think about it though, it will hammer your head while you contemplate cratering from several difficult locations.... Hopefully it won't hammer your body if you actually do cut loose at an in-opportune moment.
Make your way up to the first bolt on fairly easy climbing, clip it, tighten the velcro on your shoes, and launch upwards. The next 2 bolts are a good distance apart with brutally sustained climbing on thin edges and smearing, with serious crater potential just before clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolts. It felt like I had climbed 500 feet, with all of the wandering around looking for a path of least resistance, but when I looked down it was probably only 50 feet. After this, it eases up a bit but is still very continuous. Near the 4th bolt there is one last minor crux, which doesn't feel very easy to your blasted feet.
I thought this was substantially harder than any of the 10s on this wall, and pretty even to the 11b on this wall. If it was in Boulder Canyon, it would probably clock in at 11d or so.
Great route, great stone, great views, this is South Platte slab climbing.
LocationThis is the [3rd] route from the left on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall, up the rock gully.
ProtectionI had thought there were 4 good bolts, but Jay Eggleston has climbed it more recently and noted that there are currently 5 bolts, over 130 to 150 feet, very continuous insecure climbing with major crater potential. If this was bolted on lead (which I think is probably the case), that is damned impressive. The stances for drilling weren't that great for the most part, and I didn't see any obvious hooking possibilities.
Hubbel's book shows bolted anchors (not there). There is a juniper directly at the top (needs webbing and rings) or old buttonhead/Stardryve bolts 30 feet to the right. Also, you can hike off to the left via the ledge.