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Routes in North Face

Burley Dudes T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Clear Lycra T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Cup of Java S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
El Nino T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Platte Magic T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Traditionalists at Play TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Traditionalists at Work S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Jingus TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 180 ft
FA: Dale Hass & Bruce Hildenbrand, 1987
Page Views: 1,047 total, 6/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Apr 11, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the furthest right route on the Gray Wall on the left side of Java Dome.

To reach this wall, hike the north gully past Atlantis Dome. Follow a faint trail that descends from Atlantis into the bottom of the drainage and meets with the base of Java Dome at its lowest point. Scramble over a few boulders and up a 3rd or 4th class cleft in the slab for a few hundred feet or so. The routes will be on the right and fairly noticable since most have new bolts.

Traditionalists at Work starts just right of a large tree. It is hard to pick out the buttonhead bolts at first glance. This route has very well spaced bolts, and all are in good condition for buttonheads. Start in the cleft between the low angle slab and the gray wall, and move left after the first bolt. The crux comes after the second bolt. The angle eases, and four or five more bolts lead to a two bolt anchor and an easy walk off to the left, 170'.

Protection

6 or 7 draws.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9
This is my favorite route on this part of the rock. This is probably because I don't enjoy slab very much and the others are difficult by comparison. I think this route is true to its grade. The first bolt is pretty high, and a fall before clipping it would result in a injury. Mar 13, 2016
Yes! Thanks to Mat for his hard work! Jun 18, 2014
Ralph Kolva
Evergreen, CO
 
Ralph Kolva   Evergreen, CO
 
Bolts and anchor a nice new bolts, thanks to Mat for the hard work. Jun 27, 2011
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
Really nice, long route with good rock. Bolts are looking pretty old, but I gave them all a good tug and they didn't bust off in my hands, so.... Jul 20, 2010
John McMullen
El Portal, CA
John McMullen   El Portal, CA
Good post Bruce. I'll also mention that you could not buy bolts everywhere like you do now, and that our choice was very limited. I was never worried about the strength of the bolts ... and I tested quite a few.

Trying to buy bolts at a climbing shop practically required taking a verbal test with the shop owner. They didn't hand them out without question. Apr 25, 2009
About the buttonhead bolts, when Dale Hass and I put up this route in 1987, we used 5/16" Rawl buttonheads which were cutting edge (supposedly) at the time for lead bolting on granite (it takes sooooo long to drill a hole in granite). Recent experiences by the American Safe ClimbingAssociation (ASCA) indicate that these are a very good choice for lead bolting as they are pretty strong (AKA very hard to remove when re-bolting). Apr 18, 2003