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Routes in North Face

Burley Dudes T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Clear Lycra T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Cup of Java S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
El Nino T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Platte Magic T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Traditionalists at Play TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Traditionalists at Work S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Jingus TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft
FA: Circ Toepel and Bruce Hildenbrand, summer '88
Page Views: 88 total, 1/month
Shared By: slim on Jul 21, 2010 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Burly indeed. After climbing this, even if you soak your feet in the river while fishing all evening, it still hurts to walk the next day.

This is the 5th route from the left on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall. Begin the route from an uncomfortable, step-across start and immediately face the seemingly un-ending sea of non-holds. Awfully steep to be relying on friction climbing. The climbing lets up after the 4th bolt when the rock becomes less steep, but it still felt pretty hard.

Great climbing, great rock.

Location

This is the 5th route from the right on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall. Scramble up the rock gully to the best staging area at the base of the route.

Protection

Trout's and Hubbel's books indicate that this used to be a toprope, but is now bolted. If I remember correctly, 5 or 6 bolts, all pretty good modern bolts. At the top, just before the little tree on the ledge there is an odd bolt, probably used as a TR directional(?). there is a bolted anchor on the ledge at the top, with buttonheads/stardrives, bring new webbing. It is hard to decide whether to give this a PG-13 or R rating, so I will go conservative and give it the R rating. I TR rope soloed this one and probably wouldn't lead it.

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slim

 
slim    
 
This route is currently the 5th from the left. When I first posted these routes, "Cup of Java", which is now the left most route, didn't exist. Feb 21, 2016
Bruce - I'll have to go up there and maybe toprope around the route to see if the bolts were added on a slightly different path than what you climbed.

Slim - it would have been probably June or July, 2008. Jul 29, 2010
I can't vouch for the grade of this route once the bolts were put in, but when we did it as a top-rope, following a very direct line to the anchor, it definitely felt 5.11+. I did Raccoon Soup on Rincon the next day and the grade felt very similar. YMMV.

Bruce Jul 28, 2010
slim

 
slim    
 
Jason,

I put the routes in using the Hubbel grades, but I definitely agree with you. I honestly thought Hammerhead was the hardest on the whole wall, but maybe because it was my first route of the day and I wasn't quite in the groove yet. It kind of caught me by surprise.

I actually did Burley Dudes as my last route of the day, and my feet were killing me. I was kind of struggling on it, but it seemed like it had more to work with than hammerhead and way jingus. That explains my hard-but-not-impossible comment.

Way jingus was pretty tough, but I did it probably at the optimal route in the roster (i.e. I was warmed up but not wasted yet).

Thanks for the input, when were you up there? Jul 28, 2010
I'm not sure what's up with this route, as Slim, you rated it 11d, as did Hubbel, but when I did it two years ago and thought it was 5.10a and that Way Jingus next to it was harder. Weird grade discrepancy....

I agreed with all your other grades for the routes you recently contributed on the wall, although I thought Way Jingus was 5.11a instead of 11b, but that's minor. Jul 27, 2010
slim

 
slim    
 
Thanks for the info and the routes you put up here. Pretty good slice of rock up there with not too bad of an approach. Jul 27, 2010
Circ Toepel and I put up this route as a top rope in summer 1988. Jul 27, 2010