Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
Routes in North Face
|Burley Dudes T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R|
|Clear Lycra T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Cup of Java S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|El Nino T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Platte Magic T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Traditionalists at Play TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X|
|Traditionalists at Work S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Way Jingus TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 150 ft|
|FA:||Circ Toepel and Bruce Hildenbrand, summer '88|
|Page Views:||90 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||slim on Jul 21, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionBurly indeed. After climbing this, even if you soak your feet in the river while fishing all evening, it still hurts to walk the next day.
This is the 5th route from the left on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall. Begin the route from an uncomfortable, step-across start and immediately face the seemingly un-ending sea of non-holds. Awfully steep to be relying on friction climbing. The climbing lets up after the 4th bolt when the rock becomes less steep, but it still felt pretty hard.
Great climbing, great rock.
LocationThis is the 5th route from the right on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall. Scramble up the rock gully to the best staging area at the base of the route.
ProtectionTrout's and Hubbel's books indicate that this used to be a toprope, but is now bolted. If I remember correctly, 5 or 6 bolts, all pretty good modern bolts. At the top, just before the little tree on the ledge there is an odd bolt, probably used as a TR directional(?). there is a bolted anchor on the ledge at the top, with buttonheads/stardrives, bring new webbing. It is hard to decide whether to give this a PG-13 or R rating, so I will go conservative and give it the R rating. I TR rope soloed this one and probably wouldn't lead it.
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