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Routes in North Face

Burley Dudes T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Clear Lycra T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Cup of Java S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
El Nino T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Platte Magic T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Traditionalists at Play TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Traditionalists at Work S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Jingus TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft
FA: John McMullen and Marc Hirt (per Hubbel's white book)
Page Views: 773 total, 9/month
Shared By: slim on Jul 21, 2010 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Platte Magic is yet another terrific route on a great wall. This route offers very nice climbing that flirts with a black water streak that has exquisite rock.

This route starts just behind the large evergreen tree. It is the 6th bolted route from the left and the 7th route from the left if you include the 'Way Jingus' toprope.

Begin with relatively easy slabbing to the first bolt. Some fun sidepull flakes get you up to the 2nd and third bolts. It is kind of cruxy at the 3rd bolt and eases off to sustained climbing in the 9'ish range until the angle eases off to 7'ish for the last 30 feet.

I really enjoyed wandering back and forth across the waterstreak and comparing the attributes of the water polished rock versus the rock to the sides.

Location

Towards the bottom of the rock gully, this route starts just behind the large evergreen tree. It is the [6th] bolted route from the left, and the 7th route from the left if you include the 'Way Jingus' toprope.

Protection

6 bolts, but I am struggling to remember if they were modern bolts or buttonheads/Stardryves. The bolts were well-placed to protect the harder climbing, but still this was not remotely a sport climb. The climb finishes on a ledge where you can go left or right to bolted anchors (both with old bolts that need new webbing and rings).

Per rob bauer: all 6 bolts and the anchors have been upgraded be the ASCA (stamped on some hangers).

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10b PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10b PG13
This is a difficult slab climb and is certainly no "sport" route. The bolts are spaced pretty far apart and the first bolt is high. A fun, tough climb. Mar 13, 2016
slim

 
slim    
 
This route is currently the 6th bolted route from the left. When I first posted these routes, "Cup of Java", which is now the leftmost route, didn't exist. Feb 21, 2016
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
All the bolts have been replaced. Thank you, ASCA! Jun 18, 2014