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Routes in North Face

Burley Dudes T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Clear Lycra T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Cup of Java S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
El Nino T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Platte Magic T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Traditionalists at Play TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Traditionalists at Work S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Jingus TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Description

This has some of the steeper and more difficult lines at Java Dome. It is better for climbing in the heat of summer and worse in the winter than the south face.

The routes on the wall are long, typically around 150 feet (the routes on the left side are a bit shorter as they start higher up in the approach gully). Walk off descents can eliminate a rope, but if you want to rappel you will want a second rope, as well as some webbing and rap rings to freshen up the anchors. Hubbel's blue guidebook shows 3 bolted anchors, but there are only 2; however, there is also a sturdy juniper. Keep in mind that all of the bolted anchors consist of old buttonheads and/or Stardryvens.

Although not far from the road, this area has a nice remote feel to it. The numerous boulder caves give an eerie feeling that a wild mountain tiger is waiting to pounce on you. Another really cool feature worth checking out is the COLOSSAL boulder that is perched above this wall. It is massively undercut on all sides and resting on lightly cemented kitty litter. Who knows when it will come down?

Finally, one of my favorite things about this wall is that it makes a perfect rope soloing marathon day. You can easily set up a toprope rig on all of the routes quickly, and easily do them in a day for close to a 1000' of foot crippling fun. I've really enjoyed the times that I have been up here, and hopefully you will, too.

Getting There

Approach similarly as for Atlantis Slab.

From Denver, go West on US Hwy 285, go South (left) on Foxton Rd just past Conifer, this Ts at the South Platte River, head East (left) to South Platte (96) towards Deckers, then it curves South, go 3 miles. There is a prominent, large boulder across the South Platte River just North of the parking area. Park where legal. You may have to walk along the road a bit to the trailheads. 2 drainages can be hiked up. The North one has Atlantis Slab a short way up.

To get to the north face routes most easily, take the north drainage. Hike past the base of atlantis slab and look for a trail, or path of least resistance slightly rightward towards a pile of huge boulders in the bottom of a gulley. Enter the big cave below the largest boulder, and work your way up and left, then up and right, through bushes and boulder mantling. You will end up at the base of a small slab with a wet streak.

Hike up this slab, up through some pea-sized gravel, and make your way towards a pronounced gully at the base of the north-facing Grey Wave Walls.

The approach takes approximately 20 minutes, and really only has a small amount of unpleasant bush wrestling.

L->R:

A. Clear Lycra, 10+ R, 1p, 150', bolts.
B. Hammerhead, 10 R, 1p, 150', bolts.
C. El Nino, 10 PG-13, 1p, 150', bolts.
D. Burley Dudes, 11+ R, 1p, 150', bolts.
E. Way Jingus, 11, 1p, 150', TR.
F. Platte Magic, 10 PG-13, 1p, 150', bolts.
G. Traditionalists at Work, 9, 1p, 180', bolts.
H. Traditionalists at Play, 8 X, 1p, 150', TR.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Face

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