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Routes in North Face

Burley Dudes T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Clear Lycra T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Cup of Java S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
El Nino T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hammerhead T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Platte Magic T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Traditionalists at Play TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Traditionalists at Work S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Way Jingus TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: TR, 150 ft
FA: Circ Toepel and Bruce Hildenbrand, summer '88
Page Views: 327 total, 4/month
Shared By: slim on Jul 21, 2010 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a great, hard-but-not-impossible toprope from the Burly Dudes' anchor. Begin just to the right of the small staging area at the base of Burly Dudes and immediately step up into difficult, thin climbing on good but small edges and some hopeful smearing. After about 50 feet or so, the climbing gets less steep and eases off in difficulty.

Location

This route is the 6th route from the left on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall, or 3rd bolted line from the right. Scramble up the rock gully and begin just to the right of the best staging area. You can rap from the anchors (2 ropes, bring webbing and rings) or walk off to the left along a ledge system.

Protection

Top rope from bolted anchor (old buttonheads/Stardryvens, bring webbing and rings) at the top of Burly Dudes. Be sure to keep a tight belay as the crux is sustained climbing at the bottom and there is a lot of rope out, even if you are belaying from the top.

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slim

 
slim    
 
This route is currently just right of the 5th from the left. When I first posted these routes, "Cup of Java", which is now the leftmost route, didn't exist. Feb 21, 2016
Circ Toepel and I put this route up as a top rope in summer 1988. Jul 27, 2010