Battle of the Bulge (suggested name)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 40.44204, -105.34428 |
| FA: | Tom Kohlmann, Matt Quinn |
| Page Views: | 2,460 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Amos Patrick on Mar 22, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Surely this route has been done before, but I have not found any documentation. If it doesn't have a name, I am suggesting Battle of the Bulge (keeping with the whole combat theme). The route is pretty fun. Just when it looks like things are going to get hard, the perfect edge shows up.
Per Tom Kohlmann: instead of going right along a flake at the top, it goes straight over the top overhand to a separate set of anchors.
Location
Just to the left of Arkansas Patriot is a short, thin, left-angling seam with a great, hand-sized ear of rock. Head up that then angle to the right until you meet a small, left-leaning roof. Angle back to the left, following the small roof. Turn this roof at the apex, then gain the right-facing dihedral above, which leads you to the anchors (shared with Arkansas Patriot ).
A single rope rap gets you down. You can easily toprope this from the bolts.
Protection
A standard rack. Small cams are helpful. Bring some slings as the route wanders a bit. It ends at the same 2 bolt anchor as Arkansas Patriot.
Per TK: this goes straight over the top overhang to a separate set of anchors.



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