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Routes in Cabin Wall

Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Better Left Undone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Four-Wheel Low T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fred and Barney's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Junk Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left Horseshoe Finger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Left-facing Corner (unknown) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pair a'grins aka Unknown Roof/Corner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pure Pressure (submitted as Cowboy Justice) T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Rednekk Justus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Horseshoe Finger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rustler's Revenge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
TH Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Blocks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Twenty Too Short T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Awkward T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Willy's Hand Jive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,031 total, 21/month
Shared By: mtoensing on Feb 22, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start below the dihedral. Either climb the corner up or climb up the face to the right on jugs to a good stance to get into the dihedral. Place about a #0.5 BD cam size piece in the crack, finger lock and throw up to a jug on the face to mantel onto the ledge. I thought this was the crux.

Climb easier rock to the rest of the dihedral. Finger locks or liebacking with a few hand jam pods get you to a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor and some slings.

Location

This route is a couple of routes to the right of Rednekk Justice. It is the obvious, chalked up dihedral.

Protection

Small - medium sized cams, 2-3 finger-sized piece (small purple BD cam), hand-sized piece for up higher.
I'd say >5'10", it's 5.10- throwing up to the jug from the roof and thin jams/fingers. If <5'10", the throw is extremely reachy. Wound up doing a strenuous lieback, perhaps 5.10+. Apr 23, 2017
Martin Harris
  5.10+
Martin Harris  
  5.10+
Calling this 5.9 will get some one hurt. It was harder than many a 5.10a in Escalante, and it has sandy slippery and manky rock up top. In fact, I would say it is harder than the opening moves to S Crack. Apr 11, 2013
matt j hartman
Leavenworth WA
matt j hartman   Leavenworth WA
100% 5.9+. That means it is certainly harder than 5.9. Mar 18, 2013
Bryce Lokey
Montrose
Bryce Lokey   Montrose
Awkward is a good term. As a heads up, rock halfway up and for the last 10 feet is very sandy and soft. Rope friction is rapidly degrading these sections. Climbers looking for Escalante "moderates" may use some caution. Apr 16, 2012
slim

  5.11a/b
slim    
  5.11a/b
If I remember correctly, a semi-famous MP climber who 'onsights 5.12 trad' fell and pulled some gear on this one. I've done this one a couple times and always find it awkward. Apr 1, 2010
Dustin B
Steamboat
  5.9+
Dustin B   Steamboat
  5.9+
Wasn't trying to criticize your rating so much, just trying to say that Rednekk is (in my opinion) much harder than this route. Ratings are subjective as always and everyone has the right to rate a route however they see fit. Mar 12, 2010
Dustin B
Steamboat
  5.9+
Dustin B   Steamboat
  5.9+
Some guys from Gunny said that this was .9, and comparing this to the other routes I've climbed in the area, I have to agree with them, throw in a plus for a few punchy moves. I kinda got served on this route, and it's probably going to be harder than most .9+s at other areas, at the Creek it probably would be .11, but it's not an Escalante .11. Fun adventurous climbing though. Mar 11, 2010
Dustin B
Steamboat
  5.9+
Dustin B   Steamboat
  5.9+
If this is .11, then Rednekk is 12+. Mar 8, 2010
slim

  5.11a/b
slim    
  5.11a/b
Yeah, me too. Been a while since I have been in that area and can't remember the order of the routes. Feb 24, 2010
Does the top 3rd of this route finish with a sandy flake? Trying to figure out which one this is. Feb 23, 2010