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Routes in Cabin Wall

Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Better Left Undone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Four-Wheel Low T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fred and Barney's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Junk Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left Horseshoe Finger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Left-facing Corner (unknown) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pair a'grins aka Unknown Roof/Corner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pure Pressure (submitted as Cowboy Justice) T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Rednekk Justus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Horseshoe Finger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rustler's Revenge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
TH Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Blocks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Twenty Too Short T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Awkward T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Willy's Hand Jive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,106 total, 52/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Sep 2, 2006
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start either directly underneath the line and go up with hands over the bulge to the ledge. Or start high and right and do some face traverse to gain the ledge. Then start up with fingers with the help of a right arete until it peters out. Go up a pod section with hands and then some more rattly fingers until the chains.

Location

This is a right-facing face with small splitter crack. It has a plaque at the base.

Protection

Fingers to a few hands/ tight hands.
Michael Sammartino
Eagle, Colorado
  5.11
Michael Sammartino   Eagle, Colorado
  5.11
Definitely a sandbag at .10+ (It climbs closer to .11+, in my opinion). There are spots for a #1, #2, and #3 Camalot (start and pods), but most of the climb is straight on 0.4-0.5. Bring as many purples and orange Metolius pieces as you can, and go for it! Sep 10, 2017
Ryan Gajewski
  5.11c
Ryan Gajewski  
  5.11c
One of the best routes here but definitely not 5.10+! Mar 13, 2017
Martin Harris
  5.11b/c
Martin Harris  
  5.11b/c
There was some poop in the ow pod but not to much, and I am going back this weekend and my Muiras just got resoled. So I may be able to actually get my toe in the crack instead of just trying to smear up the rock. Mar 10, 2011
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
 
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
 
Just did this again after a few years, and the key for me was the thigh jam before the end splitter section. Mar 7, 2011
slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
It may have won the battle, but you'll win the war. Is there still a ton of rat/bat/bird crap in the big pods? Mar 2, 2011
Martin Harris
  5.11b/c
Martin Harris  
  5.11b/c
Well, I tried to lead this thing today, and it was waaaayyyyy harder than 10 plus would suggest. It was splitter #0.5 Camalot, so off-fingers, and no chance off a good ringlock. I shredded my fingers and yelled take like a girly man several times. A great line that I need to get super strong and try again. P.S. I have done 11b that was way easier and S Crack was also way easier, as was every other 5.10 plus I have ever got on. Mar 2, 2011
Martin Harris
  5.11b/c
Martin Harris  
  5.11b/c
Thanks for the beta, and wow that sounds like some sustained terrible size. Maybe next spring. I think I am done for winter. Nov 29, 2010
slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
Maybe a hand sized piece for the roof at the start (if I remember correctly). At the start of the splitter, I think it is #0.4 Camalots, bring a few of these (maybe bring 1 #0.3 Camalot to place low in the splitter, can't remember for sure). It goes pretty quick to an odd size between #0.4 and 0.5 Camalots that orange TCUs work well on. Then some #0.5 Camalots, a few #0.75s and maybe a couple #1s. One piece that I would recommend (and there are people who will scoff at this) is a large piece for the pod, maybe like a #4.5 Camalot (#5 Friend or new #5 Camalot). The last time I did this route, the pod was absolutely buried in shit of some sort, so I couldn't (or perhaps "wouldn't") go as deep into the crack as I would have liked. Having a big piece felt better for laybacking the lip.

Hopefully this helps. Nov 10, 2010
Martin Harris
  5.11b/c
Martin Harris  
  5.11b/c
Would 6 cams in the 0.5 to 0.75 range be enough plus a few #1s to zipper this thing up? Nov 10, 2010
slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
I would call it way way way way way way harder than Keyhole. Also, way way way harder than S-crack. For me, this one feels pretty similar to 'Passion for Pumping' in difficulty, maybe a tad easier. If you have big fingers, it might not be too bad though. Nov 1, 2010
Martin Harris
  5.11b/c
Martin Harris  
  5.11b/c
Is this way way harder than Keyhole, cuz this looks like such a good line? I was able to flash Keyhole on top rope, but leading it was very taxing for me and I am pretty comfortable on #0.75 ringlocks. Well, maybe not comfy, but I can move pretty well off of them. Oct 31, 2010
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
First bolts on the old routes and now plaques? I'm feeling the need for a road trip to the canyon armed with a crow bar and a sledge hammer to nip this in the bud before we have a mini Indian Creek on our hands. Feb 19, 2010
chris righter
  5.11
chris righter  
  5.11
The plaque at the bottom of this route indicates the rating is 10+++. I think it's more of an 11 - - -. Feb 18, 2010
The actual spelling of the route name is: "Rednekk Justus." Sep 15, 2006