Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,617 total · 27/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 9, 2011
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

This is a good route on great rock that offers varied climbing. Start with tight hands through a small bulge to gain the awkward dihedral and move out past the wide, small roof.

Location

The route is at the top of the trail leading to the buttress. It is 200 feet to the climber's right of Rednekk Justus.

Protection

Doubles or triples of #1s, #2s. Triples of #3. Single of #4. There are anchors on the ledge. Extend your anchor past lip if toproping.

Photos

slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
Fred and Barney's Crack. I think original Desert Rock gave it 5.10. My notes say 10c. A good, friendly intro to climbing at Escalante. Mar 9, 2011
jeffro popko
montrose,co
  5.10b/c
jeffro popko   montrose,co
  5.10b/c
The roof turn on this one gives it the third star, very exciting when you're already pumped. Mar 24, 2012
Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
This is a fantastic climb, but the pro mid-pitch is behind a detached flake for at least 2 consecutive placements. Not a great choice for those breaking into 5.10, but it is nonetheless a worthy line with cool movement. Oct 13, 2012