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Routes in Cabin Wall

Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Better Left Undone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Four-Wheel Low T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fred and Barney's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Junk Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left Horseshoe Finger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Left-facing Corner (unknown) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pair a'grins aka Unknown Roof/Corner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pure Pressure (submitted as Cowboy Justice) T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Rednekk Justus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Horseshoe Finger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rustler's Revenge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
TH Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Blocks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Twenty Too Short T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Awkward T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Willy's Hand Jive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,292 total, 28/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Mar 9, 2011
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a good route on great rock that offers varied climbing. Start with tight hands through a small bulge to gain the awkward dihedral and move out past the wide, small roof.

Location

The route is at the top of the trail leading to the buttress. It is 200 feet to the climber's right of Rednekk Justus.

Protection

Doubles or triples of #1s, #2s. Triples of #3. Single of #4. There are anchors on the ledge. Extend your anchor past lip if toproping.

Photos

Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
This is a fantastic climb, but the pro mid-pitch is behind a detached flake for at least 2 consecutive placements. Not a great choice for those breaking into 5.10, but it is nonetheless a worthy line with cool movement. Oct 13, 2012
jeffro popko
montrose,co
  5.10b/c
jeffro popko   montrose,co
  5.10b/c
The roof turn on this one gives it the third star, very exciting when you're already pumped. Mar 24, 2012
slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
Fred and Barney's Crack. I think original Desert Rock gave it 5.10. My notes say 10c. A good, friendly intro to climbing at Escalante. Mar 9, 2011