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Routes in Cabin Wall

Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Better Left Undone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Four-Wheel Low T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred and Barney's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Junk Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Left Horseshoe Finger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Left-facing Corner (unknown) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pair a'grins aka Unknown Roof/Corner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pure Pressure (submitted as Cowboy Justice) T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Rednekk Justus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Right Horseshoe Finger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
S Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
TH Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Blocks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Twenty Too Short T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Awkward T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Willy's Hand Jive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Jimmy Dunn & Jim Newberry, 1978
Page Views: 11,645 total, 85/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Sep 2, 2006
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

One of the best! This splitter, curving crack that starts off with some left-leaning finger section and just gets bigger from there. Bust the chicken wings out for the top.

Location

This is past Redneck Justice and on a right-facing face. It is hard to miss. Soo aesthetic!!

Protection

A few thin pieces all the way up to a #5. Only one of each probably.
Nick Niebuhr
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10d
Nick Niebuhr   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10d
Just climbed this today... Very hard for me. The tight hands down low and offwidth up top sure put me in my place. Looks like I need some lessons Nov 5, 2016
So hard to read 5.10c, this thing kicked my ass. The only part I found easy was the #4-6 section offwidth. lol

What a perfect line though. Jan 31, 2016
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
Morning, the earlier the better. If the sun comes around on you, you're gonna die.... Jul 4, 2015
Shep
Grand Junction, Colorado
Shep   Grand Junction, Colorado
S-Crack seems hard to a lot of people, because it has a healthy section of off-width. Off-widths always feel like a sandbag, 'cuz they're just all freaking hard whether they're 5.6 or 5.12. Feb 20, 2015
Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
I suggest NOT taping for this pitch, as the crux sequence down low involves some reachy moves with bad feet in a tight #1 Camalot-sized crack (my nemesis). Definitely bring 2 #4 Camalots as well as a #5. This pitch has some of the best rock in all of Escalante! Oct 13, 2012
Martin Harris
  5.10c
Martin Harris  
  5.10c
Can I just say that Rednekk is wayyyyy harder than S Crack. Mar 2, 2011
Martin Harris
  5.10c
Martin Harris  
  5.10c
My buddy got on this thing and said it climbs really hard, but he is comfy on the OW. I think the thin lower part spanked him. Oct 31, 2010
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
That IS pretty crazy. For me, Passion is infinitely harder than S Crack. Oct 12, 2010
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
I don't understand it, my partner red pointed Passion for Pumping which is 11+, and I flashed it with no gear to clean on TR. Then we went over and got on this, and he took a fall leading it. I fell 2 or 3 times in the same spot on TR, then had to hang in the last bit of the OW (pants!). I guess it could have been because we were so tired after all we got on a 9, 10, 10+, 11, and an 11+ the day prior. Pretty freaking hard either way. Oct 11, 2010
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
A good friend of mine asked Jimmy Dunn about it, and Jimmy said that he had never climbed in Escalante(?). Apr 1, 2010
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
The Jim's put no anchors in and they apparently down climbed it. At least that's what the legend is and when asked, Jimmy Dunn always changes the conversation to "I can't remember." I seem to remember Kenny Sims was somehow involved with this little route... who knows and it's better that way. Regardless of the suspect history of the route it's a fun climb. May 2, 2008