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Unknown Finger Crack [Edit]
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 5
votes
Routes in Cabin Wall
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Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Better Left Undone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Could've Been Good at Video Games T C3 |
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Four-Wheel Low T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fred and Barney's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Junk Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Left Horseshoe Finger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Left-facing Corner (unknown) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pair a'grins aka Unknown Roof/Corner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pure Pressure (submitted as Cowboy Justice) T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Rednekk Justus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Right Horseshoe Finger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rustler's Revenge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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S Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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TH Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Three Blocks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Twenty Too Short T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown 5.9 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown Awkward T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Willy's Hand Jive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 35 ft |
| FA: | ???? |
| Page Views: | 1,417 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | mtoensing on Nov 11, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Description [Edit]
I have no idea what this climb is called, but if you know the name of it, let me know. Work your way up the dihedral with some feet to a stance below a steep section of crack looming above you. Fire out some burly moves in the overhanging tips crack to a jug. There are new shiny bolts up top.
Note that the bottom of this route is a little loose. I have climbed this route a few times and one time a ledge for a foothold near the bottom broke. Another time we trundled a huge block off of the top of the route that was marked with chalk Xs. Anyways it would probably be a good idea for the belayer to have a helmet. This route is short but very powerful. Definitely a finger-size dependent crack.
Note that the bottom of this route is a little loose. I have climbed this route a few times and one time a ledge for a foothold near the bottom broke. Another time we trundled a huge block off of the top of the route that was marked with chalk Xs. Anyways it would probably be a good idea for the belayer to have a helmet. This route is short but very powerful. Definitely a finger-size dependent crack.
Location [Edit]
This route is the route to the left of four wheel drive by about 150 feet. It is a very obvious route as you are walking along, because the bolts are easy to see.
Protection [Edit]
BD #0.75s for the bottom, maybe three of them and possibly one #1. For the upper section I used a #0.2 or small purple Mastercam-sized piece and then three #0.3 BD-sized cams.
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