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Unknown Finger Crack
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 6
votes
Routes in Cabin Wall
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Cap'n Smith (submitted as Junk Corner) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Could've Been Good at Video Games T C3 |
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Four-Wheel Low T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fred and Barney's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Left Horseshoe Finger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rednekk Justus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Right Horseshoe Finger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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S Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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TH Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Three Blocks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Twenty Too Short T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown 5.9 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown Awkward T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 35 ft (11 m) |
| GPS: | 38.68073, -108.31363 |
| FA: | ???? |
| Page Views: | 2,742 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Toensing on Nov 11, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 7/7/26: The Island is open to climbing!
Details
As of 7/7/26: per Dave Erbe: The WCCC just got an update from a BLM Wildlife Biologist that The Island in Escalante Canyon is now open and no longer under a raptor closure.
Per Dave Erbe: these areas are now open per the WCCC and BLM update (The Island will have raptor nesting closures starting on 3/15/26, but the Cabin Wall does not have any nesting closure in place).
Previously: update: per Nolan Robertson: the land was not public yet. It was a transitional phase, being owned by a conservation group leased back to the ranch. Once the lease is completed, it will be public again. Until then, anyone going up to Cabin wall is trespassing. Please be patient, land ownership transitions take time. Anyone is more than welcome to reach out to me for regular progress reports, otherwise, Cabin Wall should be avoided until the situation is completely resolved.
...per Trevor Oman I have been informed by two sources that the land that contains the Cabin Wall and The Island is now public (NOT QUITE YET). Viewing the tract on OnX, it appears The Conservation Fund has purchased or been transferred ownership of the land. Someone more versed in the minutiae of land ownership may want to confirm this, but I wanted to put it out there to get the ball rolling on updating this page.
The Cabin Wall and the Island are closed. In regard to the rest of the areas in Escalante "Continued use of this area relies on good stewardship and a relationship of trust with the landowner."
Respect local residents, cattle and wildlife by following the posted speed limit of 20 mph.
Minimize user impact by staying on established trails and roads.
Park off the road in established pull-offs or parking areas.
Pack out human waste and garbage.
Keep noise to a minimum.
Portions of Escalante Canyon are active ranching areas. Keep pets under leash control at all times.
No fires and no discharge of firearms.
Camp in established areas only. No camping on private property.
Per Dave Erbe: these areas are now open per the WCCC and BLM update (The Island will have raptor nesting closures starting on 3/15/26, but the Cabin Wall does not have any nesting closure in place).
Previously: update: per Nolan Robertson: the land was not public yet. It was a transitional phase, being owned by a conservation group leased back to the ranch. Once the lease is completed, it will be public again. Until then, anyone going up to Cabin wall is trespassing. Please be patient, land ownership transitions take time. Anyone is more than welcome to reach out to me for regular progress reports, otherwise, Cabin Wall should be avoided until the situation is completely resolved.
...per Trevor Oman I have been informed by two sources that the land that contains the Cabin Wall and The Island is now public (NOT QUITE YET). Viewing the tract on OnX, it appears The Conservation Fund has purchased or been transferred ownership of the land. Someone more versed in the minutiae of land ownership may want to confirm this, but I wanted to put it out there to get the ball rolling on updating this page.
The Cabin Wall and the Island are closed. In regard to the rest of the areas in Escalante "Continued use of this area relies on good stewardship and a relationship of trust with the landowner."
Respect local residents, cattle and wildlife by following the posted speed limit of 20 mph.
Minimize user impact by staying on established trails and roads.
Park off the road in established pull-offs or parking areas.
Pack out human waste and garbage.
Keep noise to a minimum.
Portions of Escalante Canyon are active ranching areas. Keep pets under leash control at all times.
No fires and no discharge of firearms.
Camp in established areas only. No camping on private property.
Description
I have no idea what this climb is called, but if you know the name of it, let me know. Work your way up the dihedral with some feet to a stance below a steep section of crack looming above you. Fire out some burly moves in the overhanging tips crack to a jug. There are new shiny bolts up top.
Note that the bottom of this route is a little loose. I have climbed this route a few times and one time a ledge for a foothold near the bottom broke. Another time we trundled a huge block off of the top of the route that was marked with chalk Xs. Anyways it would probably be a good idea for the belayer to have a helmet. This route is short but very powerful. Definitely a finger-size dependent crack.
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