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Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station [Edit]
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 22
votes
Routes in Cabin Wall
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Aunt Jemima's Hand Stack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Better Left Undone T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Could've Been Good at Video Games T C3 |
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Four-Wheel Low T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fred and Barney's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Junk Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Left Horseshoe Finger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Left-facing Corner (unknown) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pair a'grins aka Unknown Roof/Corner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pure Pressure (submitted as Cowboy Justice) T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Rednekk Justus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Right Horseshoe Finger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rustler's Revenge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rusty's Cave aka Corner/Cupped hands to OW (unknown) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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S Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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TH Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Three Blocks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Twenty Too Short T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown 5.9 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown Awkward T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown Finger Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown Fingers T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown Flake T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Willy's Hand Jive T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft |
| FA: | FA: Ron Olevsky, FFA: Chuck Grossman |
| Page Views: | 5,855 total · 58/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Feb 18, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Description [Edit]
This is a classic, left-facing corner that would be a sought-after classic even at the Battle of the Bulge Wall where classic corners abound. Begin with some mostly-solid Chinle and stem, crimp, and reach until you can grasp a nice horizontal and establish yourself in the corner on the Windgate. Place a couple cams and start liebacking, which is followed by more liebacking, and then more liebacking up the slightly overhanging corner until a great foothold and hand jam appear. From here, it is straight in jamming or more liebacking up what is now a #1 Camalot crack. The anchors, which are now two bolts and chains, are just above on a ledge. The massive amounts of brightly colored fixed tat has been removed.
Although this is Escalante where this route was, without a doubt, led on hexes originally (before they made the even numbered sizes, of course) and topped on the crumbling, blank, overhanging wall (without chalk and before those dang new-fangled sport climbing shoes), most climbers now will take a few of every size from #0.4 Camalots to #2s and lower safely to the ground with a 60m rope.
Although this is Escalante where this route was, without a doubt, led on hexes originally (before they made the even numbered sizes, of course) and topped on the crumbling, blank, overhanging wall (without chalk and before those dang new-fangled sport climbing shoes), most climbers now will take a few of every size from #0.4 Camalots to #2s and lower safely to the ground with a 60m rope.
Protection [Edit]
A handful of each, #0.4 to #2 (maybe one #2) Camalots, plus a small TCU size piece if you want to protect the moves over the Chinle roof.
Also, again if I remember correctly, this thing is heavy on the #0.5 to #0.75 Camalot. I mostly remember looking at it and thinking that I was going to jam it straight on. This mother IMMEDIATELY threw my ass in a layback, and I knew I was in trouble. I got so pumped that my brains almost squirted out of my ears.
Not sure if the original anchor is still up there, but it used to be a weird, 3 piece deal on 2 walls and maybe a block, all strung together like a huge diaper.
Awesome route. Feb 19, 2010
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Longmont, Co.
Only used 2 #0.5s and maybe 3 #0.75s but definitely found myself wishing I had brought more than 2 1s as I was exiting the route.
Be careful on the start of the route, it's a tad crumbly! Mar 13, 2017