Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: FA: Ron Olevsky, FFA: Chuck Grossman
Page Views: 6,210 total · 57/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 18, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a classic, left-facing corner that would be a sought-after classic even at the Battle of the Bulge Wall where classic corners abound. Begin with some mostly-solid Chinle and stem, crimp, and reach until you can grasp a nice horizontal and establish yourself in the corner on the Windgate. Place a couple cams and start liebacking, which is followed by more liebacking, and then more liebacking up the slightly overhanging corner until a great foothold and hand jam appear. From here, it is straight in jamming or more liebacking up what is now a #1 Camalot crack. The anchors, which are now two bolts and chains, are just above on a ledge. The massive amounts of brightly colored fixed tat has been removed.

Although this is Escalante where this route was, without a doubt, led on hexes originally (before they made the even numbered sizes, of course) and topped on the crumbling, blank, overhanging wall (without chalk and before those dang new-fangled sport climbing shoes), most climbers now will take a few of every size from #0.4 Camalots to #2s and lower safely to the ground with a 60m rope.

Location

This is the obvious corner at the top of the trail.

Protection

A handful of each, #0.4 to #2 (maybe one #2) Camalots, plus a small TCU size piece if you want to protect the moves over the Chinle roof.

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Photos

Sean on PFP.
Sean on PFP.
 1
Sean on PFP.
Sean on PFP.
 2
Pumping out.
Pumping out.
 0
Leah Frazer on Passion for Pumping.
Leah Frazer on Passion for Pumping.
 0

5 Comments

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slim

  5.11c/d
slim    
  5.11c/d
If I remember correctly, Desert Rock lists this route as 'Passion for Pumping', but I have heard Ron Olevsky (FA, I think) call it 'Corner Pump Station'. Either name is fairly fitting.

Also, again if I remember correctly, this thing is heavy on the #0.5 to #0.75 Camalot. I mostly remember looking at it and thinking that I was going to jam it straight on. This mother IMMEDIATELY threw my ass in a layback, and I knew I was in trouble. I got so pumped that my brains almost squirted out of my ears.

Not sure if the original anchor is still up there, but it used to be a weird, 3 piece deal on 2 walls and maybe a block, all strung together like a huge diaper.

Awesome route. Feb 19, 2010
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Chuck did it free. Ron aided it a day or two before. Mar 1, 2010
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Chuck Grossman did the first free ascent of this. Ron's name should be put in its place as a A1 ascent. Jun 29, 2011
Martin Harris
Martin Harris  
Got a tr burn, and this thing is heinous and dope. New inspiration to get better and make 0.5 and 0.75 a fun size. Nov 17, 2011
Ryan Gajewski
Longmont, Co.
 
Ryan Gajewski   Longmont, Co.
 
Contrary to what some have said, I would advise on bringing a few more #1 C4s (or equivalent pieces) for the upper section.

Only used 2 #0.5s and maybe 3 #0.75s but definitely found myself wishing I had brought more than 2 1s as I was exiting the route.

Be careful on the start of the route, it's a tad crumbly! Mar 13, 2017