Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: FA: Ron Olevsky and Jim Newberry 1984, FFA: Chuck Grossman and Chris Begue 1984
Page Views: 8,011 total · 59/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 18, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Jesse Zacher, Monomaniac, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Tyler KC, Jared LaVacque

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Access Issue: CABIN WALL IS ON PRIVATE PROPERTY Details
Access Issue: Private Property Details

Description

This is a classic, left-facing corner that would be a sought-after classic even at the Battle of the Bulge Wall where classic corners abound. Begin with some mostly-solid Chinle and stem, crimp, and reach until you can grasp a nice horizontal and establish yourself in the corner on the Windgate. Place a couple cams and start liebacking, which is followed by more liebacking, and then more liebacking up the slightly overhanging corner until a great foothold and hand jam appear. From here, it is straight in jamming or more liebacking up what is now a #1 Camalot crack. The anchors, which are now two bolts and chains, are just above on a ledge. The massive amounts of brightly colored fixed tat has been removed.

Although this is Escalante where this route was, without a doubt, led on hexes originally (before they made the even numbered sizes, of course) and topped on the crumbling, blank, overhanging wall (without chalk and before those dang new-fangled sport climbing shoes), most climbers now will take a few of every size from #0.4 Camalots to #2s and lower safely to the ground with a 60m rope.

Location

This is the obvious corner at the top of the trail.

Protection

A handful of each, #0.4 to #2 (maybe one #2) Camalots, plus a small TCU size piece if you want to protect the moves over the Chinle roof.

Photos