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Routes in The Cleo Amphitheater

+ULFBERHT+ T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Barndoor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better When Dry T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Between the Queens TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Roof TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Colostomy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curved Wall T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jack of Spades T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
King's Throne T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
King's Valet, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Mickey Mouse T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Minnie Mouse T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Minnie Mum T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Missing Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinko T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plank, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Throne T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Queens Clam, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sluggo TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Throne Room T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tilted Tower T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.3 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unnamed 5.3 Corner T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 818 total, 8/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Nov 3, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Starts out with 15 feet of broken rock (large detatched block)and easy moves to a large ledge. Off ledge climb crack and edges trending left to left side of square buttress top.

Location

Prominent crack up highest buttress making up upper rim of Cleo's Amp. If you are standing at base of Cleo's Needle looking NNW and up at the main access gully this buttress is on the left at about 10 o'clock.

Protection

Gear is more then adequate but maybe slightly blind at crux move at exactly middle mark of route. Small to middle sized stoppers to small hand sized cams. Just be sure to protect yourself from the lurking ledge below.

Photos

The series of moves has to be exact. Couldn't climb it when I attempted it in May, came back in July and nailed it. You just have to get the right foot and hand work down. Jul 21, 2014
ShannaBerry
Chicago, IL
 
ShannaBerry   Chicago, IL
 
Can't believe this climb only has a few stars and no comments. This climb was incredible! Challenging and equally rewarding. It took moves I didn't know I had, and gained me some serious points with my crew. Only the most experience climbers even attempted it, the rope hung empty almost the entire day, and for my last climb of the day I figured, screw it, why not? And shocked myself by ascending the beast. It was one of the most rewarding moments of my short climbing career. I've also never been so spent after a route so short. This will take it out of you man, so if you're like me and want to leave EVERYTHING you have on the crag, this is the climb for you. May 19, 2014