Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: TR Erol Altay - Lead Burt Lindquist
Page Views: 163 total · 4/month
Shared By: Burton Lindquist on Aug 26, 2015
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

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A new route that climbs the wall just left of Colostomy route. Climb up dirty, lichen covered, and mucky big edges to a big horizontal. Reach straight up and side pull the neat little mini arĂȘte with both hands then bring the feet up as high as possible. Stab for the obvious little left hand in-cut found in the next small horizontal cleave - match hands - shift feet and finally reach over into the hanging crack to the right. Jam and side pull up the cool fissure to the ledge. Pull the small edges on the outside corner and hoist up to the finishing platforms all while staying away from the small tree and grassy ledge to the left.


Cleo's Amp over on the upper rim wall on the left side as a climber is looking up from Cleo's Needle. Found on the wall between the routes The Queen's Clam and Colostomy


Protection is very good. Bunch up a couple good hand sized cams in the horizontal. Place a #0 Metolius 3 cam in the hanging crack below the small block hold that ends the crux move. Place large cams in the upper crack. All good. You can protect the first 15 feet with gear placements in the start Colostomy.


Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
Where's the PG13 come in? Sounds quite well protected in the description. 9+ is my favorite grade so I may want to try this next time I'm in that area. ;) Sep 14, 2015
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  

It doesn't factor into the grade. I am not sure why I had that gear rating included. I dropped it.

This a quite well protected lead.

Burt Sep 14, 2015