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Routes in The Cleo Amphitheater

+ULFBERHT+ T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Barndoor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better When Dry T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Between the Queens TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Roof TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Colostomy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curved Wall T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jack of Spades T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
King's Throne T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
King's Valet, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Mickey Mouse T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Minnie Mouse T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Minnie Mum T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Missing Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinko T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plank, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Throne T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Queens Clam, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sluggo TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Throne Room T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tilted Tower T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.3 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unnamed 5.3 Corner T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,684 total, 14/month
Shared By: Matt Wolski on May 29, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


77 Opinions

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Description

This is a nice route to do after leading the Queen's Throne (which is an easy and really fun 5.4). Lead up the Queen's Throne. Use some webbing to anchor yourself around the spire at the top. Topside belay your second and have him clean the pitch. Then dump a #7 cam in one of the big cracks by the belay stance. There are some smaller cracks closer to the edge that should take a #4 cam. Use the webbing around the spire for your bomber anchor and equalize the two cams for a backup. I'm sure there are plenty of other ways to set up this top rope, but this worked well for me. Throw your rope over the edge that faces the lake, rap off, and you're all set to climb.

Queen's Face is a wake up call at 5.8 after Queen's Throune at 5.4...but that's a good thing. Climb the two parallel flared cracks that go almost all the way to the top. Expect very thin, balancy foot holds. The crux is pretty close to the ground, around the fourth or fifth move. There is a real positive rest hold about half way up. After that, shoot for the top.

You could probably lead this, but like I said, the crux is awful close to the ground and it's really easy to set up a top rope. It's up to you. Overall, a real nice route. It's worth doing a couple of laps on it.

Protection

Standard top-rope gear. Some webbing for sure(a thirty-footer would be nice). I also used a #7 and a #4 cam.
Tradiban
  5.8 R
Tradiban  
  5.8 R
This climb is probably best TR'd. There's pro but it's tricky and I don't think a 5.8 climber would find the moves secure. There are many holds but none to seem to be too bomber until you reach the very top, subsequently that's where the pro gets better too. Aug 13, 2011
Adam.IA.climber
Cedar Rapis
 
Adam.IA.climber   Cedar Rapis
 
Not ready for a lead on this one but TR was just as fun as most of the other climbs I have ever been on down here in IA! Jul 23, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
My first pieces were a manky nut and a 00 C3 equalized about 10 feet off the deck. These pieces were not really that great but above those I got a decent #1 C3 and then a .75 Camalot in a flaring spot and then run out until a 0 C3 towards the top. Extra spicy. Jun 6, 2011
NickinCO
colorado
  5.8
NickinCO   colorado
  5.8
What was your first piece? I looked at this a couple weeks ago and I found a spot for a offset mastercam (blue one I think) and it was still a little sketch. Nice lead! Jun 6, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Good, exciting lead. The gear is definitely not obvious and very tiny. A bomber green C3 in a horizontal about 3/4's of the way up protects the upper moves nicely and then another good horizontal protects the finish. Sep 26, 2010
Patrick Bodien
Boston, MA
Patrick Bodien   Boston, MA
bomber, gold, dmm offset at 10 ft protects the crux well. the rest has very good small pro if you search. Jun 8, 2009
Brian Runnells  
  5.8
Leading this isn't too bad. Lots of thin moves to bigger holds where you can mess around trying to find a crack big enough to put a piece into. You do have to be careful on the opening moves before you get any gear in as falling onto the pointed rock at the base wouldn't feel nice. Bring mostly small pieces though as I didn't use anything larger than a #1 C3 (although I could have missed something). Jul 28, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.8
This is a great route. Super sequency and smooth. A joy to climb! Jul 30, 2007
silkyhorse
Appleton, WI
 
silkyhorse   Appleton, WI
 
A group of us did this climb (or variations of it) on Sept 16, 2006. It was a lot of fun! The beginner climbers tended to start on the far right side, traverse over to the left about half-way up to get to a large ledge on the left side. Then, we worked our way back to the right side to get to the top. Sep 17, 2006