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Routes in The Cleo Amphitheater
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+ULFBERHT+ T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Barndoor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Better When Dry T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Between the Queens TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Big Roof TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Colostomy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Curved Wall T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hang Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hole in the Wall TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Jack of Spades T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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King's Throne T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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King's Valet, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Mickey Mouse T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Minnie Mouse T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Minnie Mum T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Minnie Mum Variation T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Missing Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pinko T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Plank, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Queen's Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Queen's Throne T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Queens Clam, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Royal Mistress, The T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Sluggo TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Throne Room T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Tilted Tower T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unnamed 5.3 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 870 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Maikey Lopera on Jul 16, 2004 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
The wall is to the right of the gully that runs right and up of Queens Throne. The route is the prominent diagonal crack on the face. The crack runs for around 25 feet and ends on the bottom left side of a small _headwall_. This small _headwall_ (around 10 feet) is the crux of the route and what makes it interesting. Climb it just right of the corner on small edges.
Protection
Big nuts (# 10-13) and 1-2 medium size cams (up to 2.5_) for diagonal crack. A Wild Country 1.75_ cam fits nicely on the horizontal crack at the base of the small headwall. To protect the final moves to top out use small size nuts (#2-4) in thin cracks on the face. On top use either tree behind big blocks on summit ledge or big nuts (#9-11) on big blocks sitting on top of the summit ledge.
NOTE: The sizes given for nuts correspond to BD stoppers. If using different kind of nuts for pro compare to BD stoppers first to choose the appropriate size. When a size of cam is given the brand is specified to avoid confusion.
NOTE: The sizes given for nuts correspond to BD stoppers. If using different kind of nuts for pro compare to BD stoppers first to choose the appropriate size. When a size of cam is given the brand is specified to avoid confusion.
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