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Routes in The Cleo Amphitheater

+ULFBERHT+ T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Barndoor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better When Dry T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Between the Queens TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Roof TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Colostomy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curved Wall T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jack of Spades T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
King's Throne T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
King's Valet, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Mickey Mouse T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Minnie Mouse T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Minnie Mum T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Missing Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinko T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plank, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Throne T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Queens Clam, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sluggo TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Throne Room T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tilted Tower T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.3 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unnamed 5.3 Corner T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 120 total, 1/month
Shared By: Maikey Lopera on Jul 16, 2004
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

The wall is to the right of the gully that runs right and up of Queens Throne. The route is the prominent diagonal crack on the face. The crack runs for around 25 feet and ends on the bottom left side of a small _headwall_. This small _headwall_ (around 10 feet) is the crux of the route and what makes it interesting. Climb it just right of the corner on small edges.

Protection

Big nuts (# 10-13) and 1-2 medium size cams (up to 2.5_) for diagonal crack. A Wild Country 1.75_ cam fits nicely on the horizontal crack at the base of the small headwall. To protect the final moves to top out use small size nuts (#2-4) in thin cracks on the face. On top use either tree behind big blocks on summit ledge or big nuts (#9-11) on big blocks sitting on top of the summit ledge.

NOTE: The sizes given for nuts correspond to BD stoppers. If using different kind of nuts for pro compare to BD stoppers first to choose the appropriate size. When a size of cam is given the brand is specified to avoid confusion.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.8
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.8
An alternate finish is to move around the right hand corner of the summit block, and finish up just to the right of the corner, 5.8 or 5.9. Protection is at the base of the summit block, a nest of opposed nuts or small cams. Aug 1, 2005