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Routes in The Cleo Amphitheater

+ULFBERHT+ T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Barndoor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better When Dry T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Between the Queens TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Roof TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Colostomy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curved Wall T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jack of Spades T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
King's Throne T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
King's Valet, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Mickey Mouse T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Minnie Mouse T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Minnie Mum T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Missing Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinko T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plank, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Throne T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Queens Clam, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sluggo TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Throne Room T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tilted Tower T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.3 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unnamed 5.3 Corner T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: FTR: Erol Altay FL: Eggert
Page Views: 293 total, 17/month
Shared By: Erol Altay on Jul 25, 2016
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

The line goes up right of Barn Door from the ground. The moves directly up the thin crack through the mid section require a couple of open handed slaps and a grab in the crack on the left corner. Pinch a right hand divot and pop for the big ledge then make a not insignificant mantel to stand up and cop a rest. After this the top is a surprising moderate thin layback flake and move to catch the top. Be sure to finish the last mantel move to work your shoulders completely.

Location

The thin crack and face above directly right of Barn Door. Using the left corner keeps the difficulty consistent. The line could probably go without the corner and would be about 12a for one move.

Protection

Top rope.

Photos

Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11a R
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11a R
Beware blowing the crux sequence or especially just above it on lead will still deposit you on the ledge, see photo. Nice addition by Erol. Sep 6, 2016
Erol Altay  
 
This goes along the rope line shown in the beta photo. The lower part uses the crack to the right of the rope and side pulls on the left (corner right of "Barn Door"). The upper part is easier than it looks, but the mantel at the top makes up for it. I used the incut on the corner which is shared with "Barn Door", which makes it overall about 10c/d. Hard to say about getting rid of the shared hold. It was 86F today with 90% RH and started raining as we left. So it may be different when not greasy. I call this route "SLUGGO". Jul 23, 2016