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Routes in The Cleo Amphitheater

+ULFBERHT+ T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Barndoor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better When Dry T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Between the Queens TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big Roof TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Colostomy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curved Wall T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hang Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jack of Spades T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
King's Throne T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
King's Valet, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Mickey Mouse T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Minnie Mouse T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Minnie Mum T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Missing Link T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pinko T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plank, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Queen's Throne T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Queens Clam, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sluggo TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Throne Room T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tilted Tower T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.3 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unnamed 5.3 Corner T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 150 total, 2/month
Shared By: Alex A on Oct 21, 2010
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Climb face to overhang with crack

Location

right of Big Roof lelf of Better then Dry

Protection

trad rack or TR

Photos

Tradiban
  5.10
Tradiban  
  5.10
Many different ways to do this, stepping slightly right to a ledge at the base of the crack, then back left past the crack seem to give the listed 5.9+ rating. the crack directly was definitely harder but there looked to be ample pro. Aug 15, 2011
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
Pulling that roof was really fun! Felt hard because of recent rain and hot humid day, but really cool movement. Only used 2 holds in the crack: one bad finger lock in the crack to stabilize (able to place one good and one marginal nut from a stance just over the roof), and one sidepull in the crack to reach up high to a rail. Then, the sweet right-handed block pinch and some easier moves to the top. Throw in a bomber .75 C4, or skip it, as these moves are rather easy (just don't fall...) Jul 17, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
OK- Well there is a right variation that makes it 5.9+ I believe. The crack strictly is pretty darn hard as it is smaller then the average finger size. Oct 21, 2010
Alex A
 
Alex A  
 
Hang Dog climbs the main crack, as I did the FA,
Burt you may right about 5.10, old school 5.9+ Oct 21, 2010
Alex A
 
Alex A  
 
The gear is good but! you need to place gear lower then head height, no space for gear and hands,
if you fall in the crux, you will need to remove your gear, down aid to clean, aka hang dog Oct 21, 2010
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I think Hang Dog climbs the face holds and more indistinct crack right of the main crack but utilizes the main crack (great wires and small cams) for gear placements. At the point where the crack meets the horizontal the climb veers a bit left and finishes up the hand crack. I you climb the crack straight on all the way it is hard 5.10 I believe. Oct 21, 2010