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Barndoor

5.8, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 29 votes
FA: ???
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > W Bluff 03 - Cl… > Cleo Amphitheater

Description

Starts out with 15 feet of broken rock (large detatched block)and easy moves to a large ledge. Off ledge climb crack and edges trending left to left side of square buttress top.

Location

Prominent crack up highest buttress making up upper rim of Cleo's Amp. If you are standing at base of Cleo's Needle looking NNW and up at the main access gully this buttress is on the left at about 10 o'clock.

Protection

Gear is more then adequate but maybe slightly blind at crux move at exactly middle mark of route. Small to middle sized stoppers to small hand sized cams. Just be sure to protect yourself from the lurking ledge below.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up Barndoor.
[Hide Photo] Looking up Barndoor.
Barn Door wall. There's several ways to get up to the Barn Door ledge and the start of the upper crack - one is to walk left of the start shown here, then just before you fall off the ledge, start climbing.
[Hide Photo] Barn Door wall. There's several ways to get up to the Barn Door ledge and the start of the upper crack - one is to walk left of the start shown here, then just before you fall off the ledge, start…
Dmitriy leads Barndoor onsight on Halloween day. A cold snow flurry day. Sun just wouldn't come out.
[Hide Photo] Dmitriy leads Barndoor onsight on Halloween day. A cold snow flurry day. Sun just wouldn't come out.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

ShannaBerry
Chicago, IL
 
[Hide Comment] Can't believe this climb only has a few stars and no comments. This climb was incredible! Challenging and equally rewarding. It took moves I didn't know I had, and gained me some serious points with my crew. Only the most experience climbers even attempted it, the rope hung empty almost the entire day, and for my last climb of the day I figured, screw it, why not? And shocked myself by ascending the beast. It was one of the most rewarding moments of my short climbing career. I've also never been so spent after a route so short. This will take it out of you man, so if you're like me and want to leave EVERYTHING you have on the crag, this is the climb for you. May 19, 2014
Shane Wallace
 
[Hide Comment] The series of moves has to be exact. Couldn't climb it when I attempted it in May, came back in July and nailed it. You just have to get the right foot and hand work down. Jul 21, 2014