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All Locations > Colorado > South Platte > Elevenmile Canyon > Pine Cone Dome

Kashmir

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British


 Avg: 2.3 from 24 votes

Routes in Pine Cone Dome

Anorexic Lycra Dog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Another Unknown Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armaj Das T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ben Dover S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blossoming Bosoms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bye, Bye Butterfly S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Conarette S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Curtlovesugly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Go T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatland Therapy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Men on a Rope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fuzzy Wuzzy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harder Than It Looks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jolly Jugular T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kabuli (submitted as Talk to Your Toes) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kashmir S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kayak for Sale S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lichen or Leave It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Row Feel Ya T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Par Four T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pine Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Punks and Old Men S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof By-Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royal Rogers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She's a Moaner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squid Face aka Pine Away T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stone Age T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stories for Boys T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talk to Your Toes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Bubb Or Not To Be T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Cows in Africa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wrestle with the Pig S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Brad & Robert Johnston, 2003
Page Views: 345 total · 3/month
Shared By: TBD on Sep 7, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

Just left of the Jolly Jugular dihedral is a bolted face. Scramble up left or right to clip the first bolt. Clip bolt, make tenuous moves to establish on the face. From a good diagonal side-pull, reach high to clip second bolt. Climb a ways up to the obvious, large crystals and the third bolt. Follow the next few bolts up and left to a two bolt anchor.

Location

This is just left of the Jolly Jugular dihedral.

Protection

Draws.

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Photos

3/8" Lok-bolt after removal - these bolts are very weak, yet this one withstood a lot of abuse. People got lucky it didn't snap.
3/8" Lok-bolt after removal - these bolts are v…
 0
The second bolt after its replacement. 1/2 x 2.75" stainless Power-Bolt (aka 5-piece) with a Fixe "PLX" hanger (Duplex stainless steel). Hardware supplied by YOUR donations to the ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org.
The second bolt after its replacement. 1/2 x 2.…
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Gently wiggling out the sleeve & bent bolt, 3/8" Lok-bolt with the head snapped off (by simply overtorquing with a wrench). The sleeve can be stuck in the rock - I got lucky that this came out so easily.
Gently wiggling out the sleeve & bent bolt, 3/8…
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The second bolt before its replacement, 9/15/18. While this looks like a 3/8" wedge bolt, the nut size is too small, and since 5/16" wedge bolts were uncommon, the best guess is a 3/8" Lok-bolt - which is what this was.
The second bolt before its replacement, 9/15/18…
 0
In the crux area.
In the crux area.
 0

6 Comments

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Newest Oldest Best Beta
Tim Stevens
Divide, Colorado
Tim Stevens   Divide, Colorado
This route is called Kashmir and was put up in 2003 by Brad & Robert Johnston, a father and son team. It originally had 3 bolts on the beginning of the route and finished with gear at the top. Since then someone else has added a bolt at the top of the route. It was rated 5.10c when initially put up but has been downgraded to 5.10b due to a piece of rock breaking off creating a dish which did not exist before. Jun 17, 2011
D.J. Radcliff
Castle Rock, CO
  5.10+
D.J. Radcliff   Castle Rock, CO
  5.10+
This route shares anchors with "Don't Go" and "She's a Moaner." Cruise up "Don't Go", which is way easier than it's rating suggests, and you can TR all four of the routes on this face. Makes for a fun couple hours. Jun 28, 2011
Jason Poole
Jason Poole  
5/14/16. Here is the bent 2nd hanger Hardcastle reported. Sorry it is a bit blurry, awkward position to snap a pic. Since the post wiggles & the force required to bend a hanger, just replacing the hanger isn't going to help. Top rope the route off the shared anchors until some one with a drill and new bolt fixes it right.
Bent 2nd hanger with loose post.
May 15, 2016
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
The bolts are all fine as of 6/22/16.
This route takes a weird swerve left at the top but all on much easier ground. Jun 26, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
People are most likely to fall at the second bolt. Jul 16, 2016
Greg Barnes
Greg Barnes  
Sorry, Mark, that was sketchy beta - the bolt was weak, with a badly bent hanger, and the nut was barely fully on the bolt (because the SMC hanger had a 5/16" hole, so it rested above the sleeve, not over it).

In any case, the bolt is bomber now...so no excuse not to go for it! 5 days ago

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