Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Kelly Baldwin
Page Views: 382 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 4, 2004 with updates from Carl Schaefer
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

Starting just right of She's a Moaner, climb a 10' pillar in the middle of the slab and head up a short corner to a good stance. Clip a bolt and power up the crack on good holds. Reach a bolt and then the anchor. Good route and climbing.

Protection

Small gear plus two quickdraws will get you to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos

TBD
  5.7
TBD  
  5.7
One hard pull at the bolt establishes you in the crack/ corner. Fun and easy climbing above with good gear. Sep 7, 2009
D.J. Radcliff
Castle Rock, CO
  5.8- PG13
D.J. Radcliff   Castle Rock, CO
  5.8- PG13
Would only rate this at 5.7, but the steepness could put it into the 5.8- range, I guess. I was only able to get a black Metolius in about 10 feet above the first bolt, then ran it out 20 feet or so to the second bolt. Easy, easy climbing after the first move, and you can access the routes on either side (9+ and 10+) from the anchors via TR. Well worth doing. Also be careful pulling your rope if it's a bit windy, it'll fall into a thin rope-sucking crack as it comes down, then you'll be climbing it again for the retrieval. Jun 27, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9-
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9-
The top crux move at the last bolt was 5.9. Sep 21, 2013
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.7
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.7
A soft touch, which makes a pleasant change. UK grade would be VS 4b with a bit of a run-out up the easy flakes higher up. Oct 16, 2013
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
One of the flakes on the route is hollow sounding.

Another one is just the right width to wedge your rope - be careful. Jul 3, 2016
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8
Kevin Heckeler
Sep 21, 2013
"The top crux move at the last bolt was 5.9."

This move is not 5.9. Easier. Jul 16, 2016
""The top crux move at the last bolt was 5.9." "

"This move is not 5.9. Easier."

If you head straight up/slightly left from the top of the flake, it's easy to accidentally finish on the 5.9 crux of She's a Moaner. You need to head right to do the easier finish, so the confusion is probably just based on which way you go.

There's a significant section in the middle of this route with no good pro. Not hard, but it makes this route a poor choice for inexperienced leaders. Oct 2, 2017