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Routes in Pine Cone Dome

Anorexic Lycra Dog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Another Unknown Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armaj Das T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ben Dover S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blossoming Bosoms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bye, Bye Butterfly S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Conarette S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Curtlovesugly S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Don't Go T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatland Therapy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Men on a Rope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fuzzy Wuzzy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harder Than It Looks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jolly Jugular T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kabuli (submitted as Talk to Your Toes) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kashmir S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kayak for Sale S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lichen or Leave It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Row Feel Ya T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Par Four T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pine Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Punks and Old Men S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof By-Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royal Rogers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She's a Moaner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squid Face aka Pine Away T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stone Age T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stories for Boys T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talk to Your Toes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Bubb Or Not To Be T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Cows in Africa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wrestle with the Pig S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,553 total · 8/month
Shared By: ClimbandMine on Jan 23, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details


Start in a chimney near the center of the dome, just left of Ben Dover (I think). The prominent feature is 10' of perfect tight-hands crack near the top of the first pitch. Belay at a good ledge. Either finish up the crack above (unknown rating) or make your way up and right with a number of possibilities to belay at trees (5.5-5.7). Descend off the back of the dome.


Standard rack to 3".


An interesting climb. My partner, who led the whole thing in one pitch, didn't like the look of the dihedral on the second pitch so she traversed 10ft. right and went up a thin crack. The protection was solid although one move was a little interesting. I slotted my baby and ring fingers into a small crack as it was too tight for anything else. Despite that, the move was still no more than 5.9. I'd be curious to hear about the dihedral (which is how the route is described in the guide books). Oct 14, 2002
I (michael) absolutely loved this climb! The belay station at the big ledge was a bit difficult to find good places for solid pro AND keeping the rope line straight, but definitely doable. I didn't go up the direct dihedral either, but going up to the right and under the roof was a great option. Fun moves! Jul 18, 2004
Larry Shaw
Larry Shaw  
Fun route. mostly 5.6 climbing with a 5 foot section of 5.8 near the top. Felt easier than [Pine Away] to me. Jul 27, 2005
Mike Ben
Mike Ben   silverthorne/denver
Climber this yesterday in one pitch. Thought it was mostly 5.6 climbing a little weird at the final moves, probably the only spicy section on the climb. Fun climb though. Strange this is a 5.8 and the roof bypass to the left is a 5.7. Felt like it was maybe the other way around. May 21, 2006
Nick Orticelle
Denver, Co
Nick Orticelle   Denver, Co
Had no idea what this was when we started, but it looked fun. And it was! The chimney is easy, with the a semi-technical crack above it which can be bypassed on the right face if need be. My leader was supposed to lead P2 as I wasn't feeling too well, but wanted to bypass the flake right above us as it looked tough. I wanted to give it a shot, and it was a major toughy compared to P1! It protected great with a #1 Camalot shoved up there (I'm 6' and it was still a stretch to shove it in). Fell 3 times before pulling it. Followed by some smaller technical moves above it. P2 definitely gets a higer rating than P1 if you take the direct route. Giving it a 5.8 for the by-passability. Jul 27, 2009
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
A good climb worth doing -- though I liked "Roof Bypass" more. The start of this climb is basically an easy chimney. The climbing gets interesting just below the first ledge where there is about an 8 ft section of exceptional hand crack in a left facing corner. What made the crack challenging (for me) is that it's undercut just below the hand crack, so the first 5 ft or so is mostly just using your hands in the crack. This will be easy for a solid crack climber -- but took some effort from me with not-so good technique. (Wish I had taped up.) Above the 1st pitch we traversed to the right and went up another thin crack directly below the "roof." This thin crack also provided a couple of interesting moves. We finished out left under the roof. Good climb! Aug 7, 2010

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