Type: Trad
FA: Brent Kertzman, Dave Brower & Rick Westbay 1986
Page Views: 300 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

At the right end of Pine Cone Dome, look for a large R-facing dihedral that starts behind the cluster of trees. Several variations are possible to get into the dihedral. The easiest is to start far right and traverse the ramp up to the dihedral. A second, spicier (and more difficult) direct start tackles the short corners and slabs just below the route. This variation goes around 8+ and with the hard-to-place gear it is even harder.

Once you've moved up the slab, make a few difficult moves to get into the corner (for the 2nd variation; easier on the 1st var.). This corner is awkward, a little loose, and quite strenuous and reachy for 5.7 (After reading these comments, I decided to just up the rating on this, but originally it was rated 7+). I would give it 5.8 for sure--a little insecure and the crack is flared, making gear placement more difficult. It felt harder seconding it behind my younger brother than leading Ben Dover (5.9).

Anyway, don't think this is going to be another 5.7 cakewalk. All in all, the route is worth doing, but because of the discontinuous start and loose, grungy nature of the dihedral it only gets one star.

DESCENT: walk off the back side of the dome.

Protection

Standard rack with a few extra long runners.

Photos