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Squid Face aka Pine Away
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.2 from 9
votes
Routes in Pine Cone Dome
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Anorexic Lycra Dog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Another Unknown Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Armaj Das T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Ben Dover S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blossoming Bosoms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bye, Bye Butterfly S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Conarette S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Curtlovesugly S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Don't Go T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flatland Therapy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Four Men on a Rope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Full Conditions T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Fuzzy Wuzzy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Harder Than It Looks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jolly Jugular T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Kabuli (submitted as Talk to Your Toes) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kashmir S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kayak for Sale S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lichen or Leave It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Neck Row Feel Ya T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Par Four T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pine Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Punks and Old Men S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roof By-Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Royal Rogers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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She's a Moaner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Squid Face aka Pine Away T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Stemulation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stone Age T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Stories for Boys T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Talk to Your Toes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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To Bubb Or Not To Be T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Toy Cows in Africa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wrestle with the Pig S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Brent Kertzman, Dave Brower & Rick Westbay 1986 |
| Page Views: | 845 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Sep 1, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st, 2016-2021
Details
For 2022: per Daniel Bryant: they did extend the order, but what I found was that the closed area does not encompass any of the common climbing areas within Elevenmile Canyon.
Seasonal Closures in effect January 1-July 31st, 2016-2021.
For details visit:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Maps:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Contact phone number: (719) 553-1400.
Seasonal Closures in effect January 1-July 31st, 2016-2021.
For details visit:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Maps:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Contact phone number: (719) 553-1400.
Description
At the right end of Pine Cone Dome, look for a large R-facing dihedral that starts behind the cluster of trees. Several variations are possible to get into the dihedral. The easiest is to start far right and traverse the ramp up to the dihedral. A second, spicier (and more difficult) direct start tackles the short corners and slabs just below the route. This variation goes around 8+ and with the hard-to-place gear it is even harder.
Once you've moved up the slab, make a few difficult moves to get into the corner (for the 2nd variation; easier on the 1st var.). This corner is awkward, a little loose, and quite strenuous and reachy for 5.7 (After reading these comments, I decided to just up the rating on this, but originally it was rated 7+). I would give it 5.8 for sure--a little insecure and the crack is flared, making gear placement more difficult. It felt harder seconding it behind my younger brother than leading Ben Dover (5.9).
Anyway, don't think this is going to be another 5.7 cakewalk. All in all, the route is worth doing, but because of the discontinuous start and loose, grungy nature of the dihedral it only gets one star.
DESCENT: walk off the back side of the dome.
Once you've moved up the slab, make a few difficult moves to get into the corner (for the 2nd variation; easier on the 1st var.). This corner is awkward, a little loose, and quite strenuous and reachy for 5.7 (After reading these comments, I decided to just up the rating on this, but originally it was rated 7+). I would give it 5.8 for sure--a little insecure and the crack is flared, making gear placement more difficult. It felt harder seconding it behind my younger brother than leading Ben Dover (5.9).
Anyway, don't think this is going to be another 5.7 cakewalk. All in all, the route is worth doing, but because of the discontinuous start and loose, grungy nature of the dihedral it only gets one star.
DESCENT: walk off the back side of the dome.
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