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Routes in Pine Cone Dome

Anorexic Lycra Dog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Another Unknown Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armaj Das T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ben Dover S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blossoming Bosoms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bye, Bye Butterfly S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Conarette S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Curtlovesugly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Go T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatland Therapy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Men on a Rope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fuzzy Wuzzy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harder Than It Looks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jolly Jugular T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kabuli (submitted as Talk to Your Toes) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kashmir S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kayak for Sale S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lichen or Leave It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Row Feel Ya T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Par Four T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pine Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Punks and Old Men S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof By-Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royal Rogers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She's a Moaner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squid Face aka Pine Away T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stone Age T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stories for Boys T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talk to Your Toes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Bubb Or Not To Be T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Cows in Africa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wrestle with the Pig S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad
FA: Brent Kertzman, Dave Brower & Rick Westbay 1986
Page Views: 159 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

At the right end of Pine Cone Dome, look for a large R-facing dihedral that starts behind the cluster of trees. Several variations are possible to get into the dihedral. The easiest is to start far right and traverse the ramp up to the dihedral. A second, spicier (and more difficult) direct start tackles the short corners and slabs just below the route. This variation goes around 8+ and with the hard-to-place gear it is even harder.

Once you've moved up the slab, make a few difficult moves to get into the corner (for the 2nd variation; easier on the 1st var.). This corner is awkward, a little loose, and quite strenuous and reachy for 5.7 (After reading these comments, I decided to just up the rating on this, but originally it was rated 7+). I would give it 5.8 for sure--a little insecure and the crack is flared, making gear placement more difficult. It felt harder seconding it behind my younger brother than leading Ben Dover (5.9).

Anyway, don't think this is going to be another 5.7 cakewalk. All in all, the route is worth doing, but because of the discontinuous start and loose, grungy nature of the dihedral it only gets one star.

DESCENT: walk off the back side of the dome.

Protection

Standard rack with a few extra long runners.

Photos

I have to agree completely with Ben on Pine Away - harder than the grade indicates, and although I'm happy to have climbed it, it's not worth my repeating it. Thought about adding this earlier but didn't want to sound whiny about the 5.7+ rating. Were it my world, I'd regrade it in the 8+ to 9ish range as well. Dec 13, 2001
I am quite certain that Stewart did not do the first [ascent] of this thing..Sorry. Was done by Brent Kertzman and Dave Brower back in the mid 80's Dec 15, 2001
5.7 my ass, I give it a solid 5.9 Dec 14, 2002
This sounds like the line Dave Brower & Rick Westbay followed me on the first ascent of 1986. The routes real name is "Squid Face".I believe it is documented in one of Climbing Magazine's Basecamps from that era.Brent Kertzman Dec 16, 2002
Pine Away on the southeast side of Pine Cone Dome is definately not a 5.7 as listed in the climbing guides. I would estimate it at a 5.10a with a long crux and poor gear placement stances. May 30, 2003
Larry Shaw
  5.9
Larry Shaw  
  5.9
Sorry but this is not a .7 it's an 8+ or 9. the first half is fun but the dihedral proved difficult. Jun 15, 2004
Larry Shaw
  5.9
Larry Shaw  
  5.9
Climbed this one again today and it seemed much easier...love those low gravity days. Jun 17, 2004
Stacy Bender
  5.8+
Stacy Bender  
  5.8+
I will agree that the upper dihedral is definitely an 8+, but I thought the real difficulty came with finding and placing reliable pro while holding a stem that had my right calf screaming. Unfortunately, the ratings don't take that into account. Jul 11, 2005
MES
MES  
I'd give it solid 5.9 with tricky pro. Apr 3, 2011

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