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All Locations > Colorado > South Platte > Elevenmile Canyon > Pine Cone Dome

Bye, Bye Butterfly

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British


 Avg: 2.4 from 24 votes

Routes in Pine Cone Dome

Anorexic Lycra Dog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Another Unknown Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armaj Das T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ben Dover S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blossoming Bosoms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bye, Bye Butterfly S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Conarette S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Curtlovesugly S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Go T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatland Therapy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Men on a Rope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fuzzy Wuzzy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harder Than It Looks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jolly Jugular T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kabuli (submitted as Talk to Your Toes) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kashmir S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kayak for Sale S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lichen or Leave It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Row Feel Ya T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Par Four T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pine Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Punks and Old Men S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof By-Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royal Rogers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She's a Moaner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squid Face aka Pine Away T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stone Age T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stories for Boys T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talk to Your Toes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Bubb Or Not To Be T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Cows in Africa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wrestle with the Pig S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Kelly Baldwin and Dave Dangle
Page Views: 249 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on May 15, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

Start just right of "Ben Dover". Climb up on good rock past several bolts to a vertical groove. Make a hard move to gain the groove then climb on thin holds up the groove making a baffling move to reach a good hold. Clip another bolt and veer left to the anchor. Great route and climbing.

Protection

Six clips will get you to a two-bolt anchor.

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From the route description, I believe this is the route we were on.
From the route description, I believe this is t…
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5 Comments

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Darin Lang
  5.11c
Darin Lang  
  5.11c
Well-bolted, fun route with a deceptive crux (that I did not fully solve) Aug 5, 2004
Larry Shaw
Larry Shaw  
Is this the route that is located two routes right of Ben Dover? If it is the climbing was fun with a great crux to get from a sloper/jug with bad feet to the lip. good stuff. Jul 28, 2005
TBD
  5.11-
TBD  
  5.11-
This is a fun route that may be easier if you are taller. Sep 7, 2009
L G
Boulder, CO
L G   Boulder, CO
Fun and relatively easy climbing up to the crux. Then thin layback, grab the crystal, and make the huge reach to the good hold above. The tall guys just reached up from a "good" toehold, but I got to work my feet up on thin face edges. Sep 5, 2010
Nick Barczak
Nick Barczak  
I climbed this "accidentally" instead of Ben Dover. I didn't have a guidebook and thought this thing actually looked like the easiest of the three lines there. All I kept thinking at the crux was, "5.9?! This is 5.9?! Damn! These South Platte guys are STOUT!"

Super fun route. Nicely bolted. The crux felt about 5.11c. I'm 5'9" with a zero ape index. The long reach will DEFINITELY feel easier for tall people. Apr 30, 2013

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