Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Kelly Baldwin and two geeks from Tucson
Page Views: 323 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 12, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

Start just right of Ben Dover. Climb a thin flake making somewhat tedious moves past two bolts. Gain a nice stance and follow the line of bolts to the anchor. Great climbing on good rock.

Protection

Five clips will get you to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Was it something I said?

Whatever. Bob still wishes he could climb as fast as me. I AM the toprope queen!

-Hillary "Geek" Davis (can't sign on?) Jun 17, 2005
WTF?

Curt Apr 20, 2007
TBD
 
TBD  
 
Perhaps I missed something, but pulling past the second bolt is a long tenuous reach that seamed much harder than anything on Bye, Bye Butterfly. Sep 7, 2009
The climbing up to the second bolt felt as hard as Bye Bye Butterfly. After that, it's about 5.10 to the anchors. Not the best quality rock up high. Be careful not to rip off the flake around the 4th bolt. Apr 30, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
The first 2 bolts definitely seemed a bit harder than Bye Bye; however, you're rewarded with juggy .8 to the top afterwards! Jun 4, 2014
cyclestupor
Woodland Park, Colorado
 
cyclestupor   Woodland Park, Colorado
 
According to the guidebook, this route shares anchors with "Ben Dover". However, the "Ben Dover" anchor is quite far to the left of the last bolt on "Curtlovesugly" and sets you up for a pendulum. I found it more natural to just go nearly straight up from the last bolt to reach the "Bye, Bye Butterfly" anchor instead.

As Nick mentioned, there is a really hollow sounding, loose flake around the 4th bolt. Fortunately, you don't need to touch this flake, and it doesn't make the climb any harder. May 8, 2017