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Routes in Pine Cone Dome

Anorexic Lycra Dog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Another Unknown Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Armaj Das T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Ben Dover S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blossoming Bosoms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bye, Bye Butterfly S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Conarette S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Curtlovesugly S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Don't Go T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flatland Therapy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Men on a Rope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fuzzy Wuzzy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harder Than It Looks S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jolly Jugular T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kabuli (submitted as Talk to Your Toes) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kashmir S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kayak for Sale S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lichen or Leave It T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neck Row Feel Ya T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Par Four T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pine Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Punks and Old Men S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof By-Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royal Rogers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She's a Moaner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squid Face aka Pine Away T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stone Age T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stories for Boys T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Talk to Your Toes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
To Bubb Or Not To Be T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Cows in Africa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wrestle with the Pig S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 3,098 total, 16/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

This is a great face climb on edges, sidepulls, and knobs. At the left-center of the dome, locate the route about 30m right of the large, right-facing dihedral (Roof Bypass, #3).

Several mini-cruxes are possible by avoiding the flake on the right, but the difficulty is not increased. This is a really fun route--do it.

Protection

About 5-6 draws to a 2-bolt anchor.
cyclestupor
Woodland Park, Colorado
  5.10a
cyclestupor   Woodland Park, Colorado
  5.10a
Great route. This route is nearly vertical, and stays nearly vertical until the end. Fortunately, most of the route is nicely featured with great feet and decent crimps. A good route to practice route finding on. There seems to be many different possible lines on this route, but don't use the flake.

I give it a 5.10a. While a 5.9+ rating is conceivable, I found its difficulty to be similar to other 5.10a/b climbs in the area.

Beware: the first bolt is quite high off the ground (maybe 20ft), and you have to make a 5.9 move or two to get to it. Nov 14, 2016
pcrist13
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10
pcrist13   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10
If using the flake, be careful as it looks pretty thin. A tough smear intensive climb for me. Aug 17, 2015
Kenny P
Woodland Park
  5.10
Kenny P   Woodland Park
  5.10
I agree, the route straight up (roughly following bolts, with the occasional moves left and right) would be a sand-bagged 5.9. I felt the climbing more along the 10a/b and felt fine just calling it "5.10".
If this grade is near one's max, it'd definitely provide some entertainment- perhaps.
Anyway, good route. Aug 3, 2013
L G
Boulder, CO
 
L G   Boulder, CO
 
This felt much harder than 5.9 when leading straight up bolt line, which mentally exaggerated the somewhat lengthy spacing between bolts. The path of least resistance, and likely closer to the advertised rating of 9/9+, seemed to be mostly near the arete on the left after clipping bolt 2, followed by a bit of meandering up high. Sep 5, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Great route! Very sustained with few natural rests. Had to wander a bit from side to side to find the holds. May 12, 2010
Jeff Bryan
Cortez, co
Jeff Bryan   Cortez, co
The white line on the beta photo shows the way to climb the route. Don't get sucked left. It may pull you left but it is actually harder to get back on route. Stay with the bolt line. Sep 10, 2008
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
  5.10
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
  5.10
This is a fun slab climb. I do believe that if you use the flake on the right of the bolts and the left of the anchor it lowers the rating to a 5.9. May 29, 2007
Larry Shaw
  5.9
Larry Shaw  
  5.9
Fun climb on edges and knobs. Forget about the flake thing on the right, no need to go there. Jul 27, 2005
If Ben Dover is climbed in shoes with a Five Ten rubber is that considered safe stealth? Oct 19, 2003