Type: Sport
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 3,417 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Sep 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


54 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

This is a great face climb on edges, sidepulls, and knobs. At the left-center of the dome, locate the route about 30m right of the large, right-facing dihedral (Roof Bypass, #3).

Several mini-cruxes are possible by avoiding the flake on the right, but the difficulty is not increased. This is a really fun route--do it.

Protection

About 5-6 draws to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

If Ben Dover is climbed in shoes with a Five Ten rubber is that considered safe stealth? Oct 19, 2003
Larry Shaw
  5.9
Larry Shaw  
  5.9
Fun climb on edges and knobs. Forget about the flake thing on the right, no need to go there. Jul 27, 2005
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
  5.10
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
  5.10
This is a fun slab climb. I do believe that if you use the flake on the right of the bolts and the left of the anchor it lowers the rating to a 5.9. May 29, 2007
Jeff Bryan
Cortez, co
Jeff Bryan   Cortez, co
The white line on the beta photo shows the way to climb the route. Don't get sucked left. It may pull you left but it is actually harder to get back on route. Stay with the bolt line. Sep 10, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9+
Great route! Very sustained with few natural rests. Had to wander a bit from side to side to find the holds. May 12, 2010
L G
Boulder, CO
 
L G   Boulder, CO
 
This felt much harder than 5.9 when leading straight up bolt line, which mentally exaggerated the somewhat lengthy spacing between bolts. The path of least resistance, and likely closer to the advertised rating of 9/9+, seemed to be mostly near the arete on the left after clipping bolt 2, followed by a bit of meandering up high. Sep 5, 2010
Kenny P
Woodland Park
  5.10
Kenny P   Woodland Park
  5.10
I agree, the route straight up (roughly following bolts, with the occasional moves left and right) would be a sand-bagged 5.9. I felt the climbing more along the 10a/b and felt fine just calling it "5.10".
If this grade is near one's max, it'd definitely provide some entertainment- perhaps.
Anyway, good route. Aug 3, 2013
pcrist13
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10
pcrist13   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10
If using the flake, be careful as it looks pretty thin. A tough smear intensive climb for me. Aug 17, 2015
cyclestupor
Woodland Park, Colorado
  5.10a
cyclestupor   Woodland Park, Colorado
  5.10a
Great route. This route is nearly vertical, and stays nearly vertical until the end. Fortunately, most of the route is nicely featured with great feet and decent crimps. A good route to practice route finding on. There seems to be many different possible lines on this route, but don't use the flake.

I give it a 5.10a. While a 5.9+ rating is conceivable, I found its difficulty to be similar to other 5.10a/b climbs in the area.

Beware: the first bolt is quite high off the ground (maybe 20ft), and you have to make a committing move to get to it. Nov 14, 2016