Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,762 total · 30/month
Shared By: Lance Bischoff on Jul 4, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st Details

Description

Lance, Bill Parmenter, Robbie Mitchell. Certainly climbed before- located in and just right of dark, deep crack by dihedral far left of Pine Away, right of Armas Daj, and barely to right of 5.10 bolted line on face before it bends to a dihedral corner.

P1. Climb on the face (or mix with crack moves, some vegetation though) just right of the deep crack up marvelous flakes and jugs 100+ feet to sculpted and rounded intersection of bouldered features under a small roof. Nestled in this "ledge" are slightly flared channels/troughs that offer skilled placement opportunities using a combo of several larger nuts, cams, or Tri-cams.

P2. The final pitch is 40-50 foot left and upward slanted traverse with great lieback up to the same pine tree that sits atop Armas Daj. The tree has a huge rap ring if you have two 60m ropes. Our party chose the 4th class scramble up and to right (10 foot ascent on traverse behind a horn) to summit and do the walk-off. The route on whole is well-protected, but not as many easy placements as Staircase. However, runners can enhance as pro on the many flakes present. A generous length cordellete is recommended for the pro you'll need at the belay station. Steeper than most 5.5's, and thin enough on feet, occasionally, to justify the 5.6. For hands, it is a jug fest! We'll be happy to rename for the FA party if claimed, but we haven't seen this route in beta. In photo 230, Jolly Jugular is just 5-6 feet left of the man on rappel. Enjoy! We all rate it 3 stars!

Protection

A conservative trad rack is fine, and bring some runners for natural flakes. Larger cams, tri-cams and/or large stoppers for belay station with cordellette are recommended. There are no existing bolts or anchors. There is a pine tree at the top; however, it's fine!

Photos