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Routes in Chicken Rock

5.7 Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Checkenhead Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
KFC T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
KFC Chimney Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing Chickenheads S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Amigos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown (10a sport with trad 10b second pitch) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (5.8?) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.8 Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Grubber?
Page Views: 1,354 total · 12/month
Shared By: Daniel McNamara on Sep 7, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a fun easy route for beginners and kids.

Per Arlo F Niederer: this climb follows a right-leaning crack which has plentiful features to use for protection and holds.

Climb on chickenheads, rails, features, and jam the crack.

It is well-protected and easy climbing suitable for beginning leaders.

Eds. This is a combination of submissions moved to the 1st submission's page.

Location

It is in The Tarryall at the LaSalle crag (Valley of Chickens?). Follow trail from the parking area to the base of the crag. Look for the face with amazing huecos and chickenheads.

Per Arlo F Niederer: this is just left of a mossy, chossy crack.

Protection

Protect with a small cam or nut in the crack down low, then the rest is slinging large huecos. There are good bolt anchors at the top.

Per Arlo F Niederer: bring gear to a 3" and slings for chickenheads. It is possible to protect with larger cams in the outer part of the crack or smaller gear inside.

The anchor has rappel chains.

Photos

Gary walker   Alma
As far as I know, Mike Grubber “Grubby” put this route up. We always have called it Checkenhead Route.

Mike Grubber and Bill Schmauser put up all the routes in this area. They had a few run ins with each other regarding ethics.
Gary Walker May 3, 2018

More About Checkenhead Route

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