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> Chicken Rock
Down on My Cluck
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.4 from 48
votes
Routes in Chicken Rock
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5.7 Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Checkenhead Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Down on My Cluck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Just Flew the Coup S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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KFC T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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KFC Chimney Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Missing Chickenheads S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Osteofight S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Three Amigos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown (10a sport with trad 10b second pitch) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 10- S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Mark Van Horn |
| Page Views: | 2,655 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Evan C on Sep 14, 2017 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This one is guaranteed to put a smile on your face, the holds are ridiculously large. The first pitch alone is a great outing for newbies or the aspiring 5.8 climber.
The first pitch climbs the shallow crack with red bed-frame hangers (I think the first hanger disappears and reappears periodically, maybe bring gear if the first bolt looks too high for your comfort level). It has bolted anchors.
The second pitch follows the bolt line up and to the right of the ominous looking roof -- fear not, the climbing stays easy. There are more bolted anchors.
Rap with two ropes, or using the bolt and chain anchors for the trad climb to the right of the first pitch.
The first pitch climbs the shallow crack with red bed-frame hangers (I think the first hanger disappears and reappears periodically, maybe bring gear if the first bolt looks too high for your comfort level). It has bolted anchors.
The second pitch follows the bolt line up and to the right of the ominous looking roof -- fear not, the climbing stays easy. There are more bolted anchors.
Rap with two ropes, or using the bolt and chain anchors for the trad climb to the right of the first pitch.
Location
It is up the hill and to the left of the main wall with the easier mixed / trad lines. The red bed-frame hangers on the first pitch make it easy to spot.
Protection
A dozen quickdraws should be plenty. Bring two ropes if you don't want to rap twice.
Per George Bracksieck: linking both pitches requires 17 draws (not “a dozen“), including one for the midway anchor and NOT including something for the top anchor.
8 Comments