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Routes in Chicken Rock

5.7 Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Checkenhead Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
KFC T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
KFC Chimney Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing Chickenheads S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Amigos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown (10a sport with trad 10b second pitch) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (5.8?) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.8 Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 79 total · 6/month
Shared By: Evan Crumpecker on Sep 14, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

My opinion of this route may be a bit marred because of the nesting hornets in every decent gear placement. This reduced me to a sniveling coward halfway up without any good gear...I think the climb would have been a more enjoyable experience otherwise.

Climb the steep, dual-crack system that starts with some bushwhacking. You'll start out in the flared right-hand crack and then traverse into the smaller left crack at some point. I thought traversing into the left crack was fairly committing but pretty easy once you just buckle down and do it.

Climb to the end of the steep crack systems, and continue on easier terrain slinging chickenheads or plugging more gear along the way to the bolt and chain anchor. The anchor should be visible from the ground if you step back a bit.

Location

Just up the hill to the left of the first routes you encounter, this is the obvious dual crack system just left of the big chimney.

Protection

A set of wires + cams to 3" or maybe 4". The right-hand crack is pretty flared and hard to place in at the start. Better pro exists higher up and in the left-hand crack (but there may be hornets). You could maybe put some big stuff in the chimney to the right at the start....

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