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Routes in Chicken Rock

5.7 Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
KFC T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
KFC Chimney Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing Chickenheads S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Amigos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown (10a sport with trad 10b second pitch) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (5.8?) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (Huecos and Chickenheads?) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.8 Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 9,200 ft
GPS: 39.101, -105.524 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 8,129 total, 62/month
Shared By: Mike Robinson on Mar 1, 2007 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

This area is great in Fall and on warm Winter days. It is never crowded. There are 1-2 pitch trad and sport routes numbering at least 9. The crags can be hard to get to as most roads are not labeled.

Per WMcD: There are about 15 moderate routes, some up to three pitches in length. Ascend the chickenheads, cracks, and faces. Although a few face routes are bolted, most protection is found in cracks and by slinging the large chickenheads. The routes are equipped with modern rap anchors. The rock quality is good, the features are unique, and the hardest established routes clock in around 5.10. The good climbing cannot be seen in the pictures currently posted for this area. Most of the established routes are located off the right side of these photos.

Per Arlo F Niederer: Valley of Chickens has excellent rock with numerous chickenheads and a variety of sport, trad, and mixed routes.

The numerous chickenheads provide protection, fun climbing, and good moderate routes.

The GPS is close, but it may not be quite accurate yet.

Getting There

Go North on CO 92 past Eleven Mile Canyon on the left. It will be on the right before you intersect with US 24 E/W. You may find a better description in South Platte climbing guides, crags can be elusive to find because the roads are not labeled.

Per WMcD: It is located off of Park County Road 31 in between Highway 24 and the Tarryall Road (CR 77). I can't remember the numbers of the roads that actually lead to the crag, but the rock is clearly visible below and to the right of Badger Mountain (the one with the antennas) when driving on CR31 from the Tarryall Schoolhouse toward 24. Veer right off of 31 at some mailboxes and pass a small ranch and pond on your left. Stay right near the signs for La Salle Pass and park at a large campsite directly beneath the crag. A 5 minute walk up an obvious trail leads to the rock.

Per Arlo F Niederer: from the east, follow the faint trail along the base of the cliffs past The Egg and Going Away Party.

From the shady parking and camping area to the south, a trail proceeds directly to the base of Valley of Chickens.

Eds. This is a compilation of 2 submissions onto the 1st submission's page for what turns out is the same crag, Chicken Rock.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chicken Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Chris Perkins
Buena Vista, Colorado
Chris Perkins   Buena Vista, Colorado
You can get a guide from Bob on his website for $5 in black and white. A few more bucks for color.
The climbing area is referred to as Badger Mtn area by Bob.
climbingpamphlet.com/ Jul 9, 2014
Off Route
Woodland Park
Off Route   Woodland Park
Great climbing area on the east side of Wilkerson Pass. All the routes were bolted years ago by Bob Robertson and Carrie Lin. Was lucky enough to meet the both of them at the the rock last year. There are some new routes some local guys have put up in recent years - mostly some very short 5.11s. Great climbing spot with no crowds! Mar 23, 2013
Daniel McNamara
Golden, CO
Daniel McNamara   Golden, CO
My family has been climbing at this area for years, but we have never seen anyone else (other than dirt bikers and target shooters).

We have no information on the routes other than our own experiences and would be interested in learning more. We've called it LaSalle Crag over the years, but that is probably not quite geographically accurate.

The rock is solid granite with interesting erosional features that make great holds. There are beautiful cracks, a few nice bolted routes in the 5.7-5.9 range and a very nice route for kids ~5.6 that can be protected by slinging only chickenheads and huecos. Most routes have nice anchors. Sep 7, 2009
WMcD  
From the pictures, it looks like this a little crag in the Badger Flats called Valley of the Chickens. It is located off of Park County Road 31 in between Highway 24 and the Tarryall Road (CR 77). I can't remember the numbers of the roads that actually lead to the crag, but the rock is clearly visible below and to the right of Badger Mountain (the one with the antennas) when driving on CR31 from the Tarryall Schoolhouse toward 24. Veer right off of 31 at some mailboxes and pass a small ranch and pond on your left. Stay right near the signs for La Salle Pass and park at a large campsite directly beneath the crag. A 5 minute walk up an obvious trail leads to the rock.

About 15 moderate routes, some up to three pitches in length, ascend the chickenheads, cracks and faces. Although a few face routes are bolted, most protection is found in cracks and by slinging the large chickenheads. The routes are equipped with modern rap anchors. The rock quality is good, the features are unique, and the hardest established routes clock in around 5.10. The good climbing cannot be seen in the pictures currently posted for this area. Most of the established routes are located off the right side of these photos.

This area should probably be renamed--it is certainly not Terryall State Park. Aug 28, 2008
John McNamee
Littleton, CO
John McNamee   Littleton, CO  
We are in the process of contacting Mike and asking for the description to be updated with accurate information. Jun 18, 2008
Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
I agree Pete, I was wondering what the hell they were trying to describe here. Terryall is about 30 miles north on County Rd. 77. I'm not too sure how the climbing is at Terryall but the fishing is supposed to be pretty good. Jun 17, 2008
Jeremy Hakes
Golden, Colorado
Jeremy Hakes   Golden, Colorado
I think you are referring to Tarryall State Park.... Jun 16, 2008

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