Chicken Rock Climbing
Routes in Chicken Rock
|5.7 Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|KFC T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|KFC Chimney Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Missing Chickenheads S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Three Amigos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Unknown (10a sport with trad 10b second pitch) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Unknown (5.8?) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Unknown (Huecos and Chickenheads?) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Unknown 5.8 Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|GPS:||39.101, -105.524 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||8,129 total, 62/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Robinson on Mar 1, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
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DescriptionThis area is great in Fall and on warm Winter days. It is never crowded. There are 1-2 pitch trad and sport routes numbering at least 9. The crags can be hard to get to as most roads are not labeled.
Per WMcD: There are about 15 moderate routes, some up to three pitches in length. Ascend the chickenheads, cracks, and faces. Although a few face routes are bolted, most protection is found in cracks and by slinging the large chickenheads. The routes are equipped with modern rap anchors. The rock quality is good, the features are unique, and the hardest established routes clock in around 5.10. The good climbing cannot be seen in the pictures currently posted for this area. Most of the established routes are located off the right side of these photos.
Per Arlo F Niederer: Valley of Chickens has excellent rock with numerous chickenheads and a variety of sport, trad, and mixed routes.
The numerous chickenheads provide protection, fun climbing, and good moderate routes.
The GPS is close, but it may not be quite accurate yet.
Getting ThereGo North on CO 92 past Eleven Mile Canyon on the left. It will be on the right before you intersect with US 24 E/W. You may find a better description in South Platte climbing guides, crags can be elusive to find because the roads are not labeled.
Per WMcD: It is located off of Park County Road 31 in between Highway 24 and the Tarryall Road (CR 77). I can't remember the numbers of the roads that actually lead to the crag, but the rock is clearly visible below and to the right of Badger Mountain (the one with the antennas) when driving on CR31 from the Tarryall Schoolhouse toward 24. Veer right off of 31 at some mailboxes and pass a small ranch and pond on your left. Stay right near the signs for La Salle Pass and park at a large campsite directly beneath the crag. A 5 minute walk up an obvious trail leads to the rock.
Per Arlo F Niederer: from the east, follow the faint trail along the base of the cliffs past The Egg and Going Away Party.
From the shady parking and camping area to the south, a trail proceeds directly to the base of Valley of Chickens.
Eds. This is a compilation of 2 submissions onto the 1st submission's page for what turns out is the same crag, Chicken Rock.
Classic Climbing Routes at Chicken Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season