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Routes in Chicken Rock

5.7 Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Checkenhead Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
KFC T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
KFC Chimney Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing Chickenheads S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Amigos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown (10a sport with trad 10b second pitch) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (5.8?) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.8 Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 89 total · 10/month
Shared By: Climb Soft Spray Hard on Sep 14, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Edit]

Begin with a fun, little romp up a tricky, slabby start, then make heady moves on easy terrain to the anchors. This one is bolted perfectly safely, just don't fall on the easy parts. If you can pull off the first sequence, you'll be fine up above.

After the bolted first pitch, there is apparently a 10b trad pitch that follows the vertical crack up to the roof, traverses left up through the roof, and terminates at the bolted anchors of Three Amigos. I haven't had chance to try this yet, though.

Location [Edit]

It is just right of Three Amigos and just left of the Unknown 5.8- with red bed-frame hangers. This is up the hill and left from the easier mixed lines. The first bolt should be easy to spot just above a bulgy thing.

Protection [Edit]

6-ish bolts + anchors.


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Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
another good route. the start felt to be the crux and I protected the thin move to the first bolt with a .5-BD. I also used a yellow-C3 mid way and a #2BD just below the anchor. but a better headed leader wouldnt need to. 14 hours ago

More About Unknown (10a sport with trad 10b second pitch)