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Routes in Chicken Rock

5.7 Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
KFC T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
KFC Chimney Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing Chickenheads S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Amigos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown (10a sport with trad 10b second pitch) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown (5.8?) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (Huecos and Chickenheads?) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown 5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 5.8 Face S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 167 total, 33/month
Shared By: Arlo F Niederer on Jun 20, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This climb is missing most of the chickenheads which are so prevalent on other areas of the formation and provides harder climbing.

Climb up a blocky ramp or the face to a high first bolt at the start of a bulge. Climb up steep rock, and clip the second bolt. A fingertips-only hold and stemming in a very shallow, right-facing corner will solve the crux.

Climb up a short trough to clip the third bolt. Face climbing on nubbins and smears lead past the next bolt and the start of a finger crack.

Clip the last bolt and use the finger crack and nubbins 20 feet to easier climbing and numerous chickenheads to the anchors.

The real name of this route is unknown, but I provided the name to avoid numerous "unknowns." If anyone knows the real name, I will change the name to the real name.

Location

Just left of Chickenheads and Jams, this route can be toproped by leading Chickenheads and Jams and climbing easy rock up and left for about 20 feet to the anchors of Missing Chickenheads.

Protection

5 bolts plus anchors. Bring finger-size gear to supplement the bolts in the finger crack if you are a "chicken."

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