Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,108 total · 44/month
Shared By: Justin Slagle on Aug 6, 2009 with updates from Gabe O'Leary
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


42 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Original Route (5.8):
After one pitch of the Beckey Route, traverse right on the ledge (the "Beckey ledge") past a few trees and go up an open book corner system to the top of the buttress rejoining the Beckey Route before attempting the scramble and 10 foot 5.6 slab to the top.

Direct start (5.8):
Start a few feet to the right of a red blocky overhang and make your way up and left to the Beckey ledge and follow the original route rejoining the Beckey Route and finishing to the summit.

Variation (5.8+):
Do the direct start and, instead of going to the Beckey ledge, continue up to a ledge below an overhanging leaning block. There's a tree with a sling to belay from. After leaving the belay spot (crux pitch), continue past the leaning block and move up and left to rejoin the original route, belay before you venture up a ramp to the right, then you'll run into a 10 or 15 foot 5.8 crack with an old piton in it. After the crack you'll rejoin the Beckey route and scramble to the top as per the original route.

Protection

Pro to 4 inches

Photos

Kevin Peter  
 
This is a great variation to the Beckey Route and deserves more traffic. Short punchy cruxes through memorable sections of climbing make this route a fun outing. Sep 4, 2013
Matthew Tangeman
Bellingham, WA
 
Matthew Tangeman   Bellingham, WA
 
While there were lines on the Beckey Route, had Rapple Grapple to ourselves. Consistently more fun and engaging than the Beckey (I thought), I definitely agree this route is worthy of more attention. Jul 1, 2016