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Routes in Liberty Bell

A Slave To Liberty T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Beckey Route (SW Face) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Freedom Rider T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Freedom or Death T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Girl Next Door, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Liberty Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C2
Liberty Crack Free T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Liberty and Injustice for All T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Live Free or Die!™ T V5+ 6C+
NW Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NW Face Var. (Remsberg Variation) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Overexposure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapple Grapple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Serpentine Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thin Red Line (Free Version) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Eli Helmuth
Page Views: 1,967 total, 51/month
Shared By: kerwinl on Sep 11, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A 4 pitch route that rejoins liberty crack just above the P2 anchor. Identify the start as small leftward trending ramp leading to a face, bolts should be visible above.

Pitches break down to.

P1. 5.10b/c, Climb up through face and crack system to bolts on a slab. Requires 4-5 pieces of gear before the first bolt. Dont go to far left at the beginning, trend more or less straight up.
P2 5.11c, step left from the anchor and follow bolts upward trending slightly right, a finger size piece or two could be placed, but is not necessary.
P3 5.12a, follow bolts up and left, sustained climbing, hard to aid. bring a .5, .75, and #1 camalot.
P4 5.10c, awkward rough traverse to the left, with some spicy moves to get into liberty crack, you will rejoin just above the P2 anchor. The remaining crack to the P3 anchor is rated 11+ R, but felt PG13 to me. Offset nuts, and finger size pieces will protect this piece well.

It is also possible to link Pitch 3 into the adjacent Thin Red Line P4. To do this step right and gain Juggy flake on right side of slab before clipping the final bolt on Freedom or Death. Use runners well to avoid rope drag.

Location

East face of Liberty Bell, starts just to the right of Lib Crack, look for leftward trending ramp.

Protection

All belays are bolted and route can be rappelled with a 60m rope from the top of P3. I am not sure if you can rappel from the top of P2 of Liberty crack (with a 60m), as I have not climbed it.

Photos

Sol Wertkin
Leavenworth, Washington
Sol Wertkin   Leavenworth, Washington
I'll add that I felt that P4 was nearly as hard or as hard as the crux, but I have giant fingers and it was quite greasy (like ridiculously)on Liberty Crack.

Contrary to the rack suggestion in Cascades Rock, we found a #3 useful and doubles from Green C3 to .5 helpful for P4.

GREAT LINE! Jul 29, 2017
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
 
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
 
Stellar route. I don't know if I'd call the climbing on P4 11+. I thought it was significantly easier than the crux on P2. Might be a case of grade inflation due to people being gripped by the pro? Jul 13, 2017
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
  5.12a
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
  5.12a
I don't mind the mid-way anchor, just annoyed when I unexpectedly ran into it years later up there with Vince Anderson. Actually redpointed that complete pitch with Paul belaying so not sure why it was mis-communicated but that is a lot of quickdraws for one pitch! I remember that he and Larry G were with me and they had to hang a few times that day on that rope stretcher so we didn't continue to complete the route that day. Came back later and finished it left under the roof and into Liberty Crack.
Sep 5, 2016
Mikey Schaefer
Terrebonne, OR
Mikey Schaefer   Terrebonne, OR
I actually added the bolt to make the belay. I did this with my brother back in '00 maybe? maybe '01. He was interning at NCMG at the time. Paul Butler had told us the pitch wasn't actually ever redpointed. Maybe there was some miscommunication there? I also believe he thought the mid anchor would make the pitch better as rope drag and rope weight wouldn't be so bad. And not to mention the need to bring 18+ quickdraws up Liberty Bell. I'd still see this as a big deterrent if planning to continue to the top which parties do these days. Jul 29, 2016
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
  5.12a
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
  5.12a
I originally redpointed what are now pitches 2 & 3 in one rope stretcher. Not sure who added the mid-point anchors, why they would, and maybe worth removing as that was never the original climb? Jul 29, 2016
Drewsky  
This route is great. I found it hard to rate because my toes were kind of numb from the cold, but I thought pitch two was maybe more like .11a or .11b at most. Pitch three seemed to fall a tiny bit short of .12a, but in retrospect I'm not sure why. In any case, it really is a quality pitch with some nice, sustained edging on a clean slab and a few crack moves thrown in for good measure. Oct 5, 2015
The third pitch of this route is amazing. Jul 23, 2015
P1 - .10b bolts and gear (this is not all bolt protected)
P2- .11c bolts - clip bolted anchor and downclimb right to comfy ledge. Gear belay takes wires and a mid-size cam.
P3 - .12a bolts and supplement with a single set from fingers to hands. Bolted Anchor.
P4 - .11c gear (some fixed heads and pins) Begins with a 5.10 traverse, then has a short 5.11 crux after joining LC, then 5.10 to the bolted anchor. Dec 10, 2014
michal
Everett WA
  5.11+
michal   Everett WA
  5.11+
If you free climb the fourth pitch to a higher anchor on Liberty Crack it's 11d. It's .10 while you traverse to LC then it gets much harder when on LC. This will put you at base of first .10 crack on LC if choosing to top out. Sep 17, 2014