Type: Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,890 total · 37/month
Shared By: Mark SLC on Aug 27, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Great route that didn't seem to see much traffic. First pitch a little mossy but the rest we thought were stellar.

Pitch 1 - slab moves heading left into a corner with short 5.8 move over a bulge. Belay above some moss in a corner/gully below obvious steep corner w/ crack. 5.8

Pitch 2 - Head up easy handcrack to base of the business. We bumped a #3 to eye level on the start. Seemed to work well for us. Great gear, a bit wide and (for us) pretty physical. 5.11.

Pitch 3 - Awesome left angling hand crack. Note old wedged 2x4..?. Awesome exit move pulling a small roof/bulge with great gear. Continue above, building anchor before tunnel. 5.10

Pitch 4 - head up and right through tunnel (probably recommended) or left and over (harder w less pro). Continue on beautiful exposed sunny arete/spur. 5.7

Simul/scramble to summit.

Location

Liberty Bell West Face. Approach as for Beckey route but stay left at fork in gully. You can stash packs here and pick em up on descent.

Route starts up and left so scramble up 4th class ledges to start at slung small pine above slabs. Look for prominent roofs as per topo left of the crack.

Descend as for all other routes from summit (Beckey Route and 2 raps - watch for rope catching on blocks below second station)

Protection

We brought doubles to #3 camalot, and 1 #4 sufficed for bulge on crux 2nd pitch.

Photos