Avg: 2.3 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 14 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Steve Risse and Bryan Burdo|
|Page Views:||2,464 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||Jacob Smith on Sep 21, 2014|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
1 - 5.8 R, climb the loose corner system about 100 ft. left of Liberty Crack, there is probably only one truly dependable piece on this entire pitch and the belay stance is awkward.
2 - 5.10, brief wider crack, thinner above; several belay options exist, either stop at the sizable broken ledge or continue up to the base of the offwidth.
3a - 5.10d, thin "cracks" to the left of the offwidth; balencey, technical climbing with mediocre gear, traverse right past the offwidth to a finger crack just out of sight over the arete.
3b - 5.11b, climb the off-width until you can reach the finger crack.
4 - 5.8+, easy handcrack leads to an airy move left, amazingly solid for how exposed it feels, finish up some thin cracks.
5 - 5.10b, large crystals, steep hand-cracks. This pitch might make wearing tape gloves worthwhile for the whole thing. Finish at a big ledge w/ tree anchor.
6 - 5.6, descend slightly and then traverse to just below "The Rotten Block."
7-9 - follow Liberty Crack until roughly the beginning of the final 5.9 pitch.
10 - 5.10a, traverse right (two options, one high and easy, one low and hard, both have a bolt) into a thin crack.
11 - 5.10b, climb up toward the chimney, most of this is a fun handcrack, belay at the base of the chimney with scattered fixed pins. Pitches 10 and 11 can be easily linked.
12 - 5.8+, "Medusa's Roof," exposed but kind of absurdly secure climbing up around a chockstone.
13 - 5.8, up and right from the belay, a right facing corner that starts simple but gets a bit thin and smeary.
14 - "Class 4," scramble to the summit, belay if needed (would be several rope lengths if fully pitched out, but it's mostly class 2-3 past the first 50 ft.
Because of how it intersects Liberty Crack, splitting the route in half is perfectly feasible; if doing this I would recommend starting on Liberty Crack and finishing on Freedom Rider, as it is essentially a direct finish for that route anyways. In my opinion, if they were a little cleaner, the two 5.10 pitches beneath Medusa's Roof would be the best free climbing on either route.