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Routes in Liberty Bell

A Slave To Liberty T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Beckey Route (SW Face) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Freedom Rider T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Freedom or Death T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Girl Next Door, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Liberty Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C2
Liberty Crack Free T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Liberty and Injustice for All T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Live Free or Die!™ T V5+ 6C+
NW Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NW Face Var. (Remsberg Variation) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Overexposure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapple Grapple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Serpentine Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thin Red Line (Free Version) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 12 pitches, Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 285 total, 103/month
Shared By: Nathan Hadley on Sep 3, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Liberty Crack was originally freed by Brooke Sandahl in 1991. Mikey Schaefer, Seanjean Lee, Blake Herrington and I somewhat collectively created a new free variation to the bolt ladder. Brooke originally climbed the bolt ladder directly, but this has since seemed to have crumbled under years of aiding. Needless-to-say, the route's new free beta has finally settled, and a handful have sent as follows. Props for to Brooke being well ahead of his time. Some strong climbers in his day supposedly tried this thing and couldn't do it, and it stood unrepeated for over 20 years!

P1: 11-, same as original.

P2: Lithuanian Lip, 13b (my suggestion). Fun 11- climbing in a corner leads to a scrunchy and powerful traverse to finger locks above the lip. Lock it in, high step to the lip, grit your teeth and stab to a good lock. Keep it together on 12- moves to a small stance below the bolt ladder. Use a triple length sling to make a belay out of a high and low bolt.

P3: The new free variation of the slab pitch, which differs from how Brooke Sandahl originally freed it (up the bolt ladder, which now seems blank), moves right before the bolt ladder. Clip the higher belay bolt, move right across sloping ledges, mantel, and execute cruxy foot step ups. Move back left under a hand rail feature to the belay above the bolt ladder. 5.12.

P4: same as original P3. 11+, with a thin crux before reaching the small roof.

Protection

Single rack from purple c3 to #3 BD, with a few extra in the tips to fingers size, maybe red c3 to .4 BD, and stoppers. 8 trad draws and 1 triple length sling for slab pitch belay. All belays are fixed.

Photos

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
I think the history of the various styles of ascents of the lip is kind of academic given the nature of the pitch. Both pieces of gear that go in where the climbing is hard go in from no-hands stances begging the question 'does it really matter how this particular pitch was led?' Before I ever touched the lip, I would've said yes. Now, having tried it a handful of times, I'm not so sure. I honestly don't think putting in the widgets adds that much difficulty to this specific pitch.

Long story short, nice job Brooke for sending in fine style way before anybody else. (and via an unrepeated line to boot!) Oct 19, 2017
Yes, Mikey, it is cool that it seems shorter folk have the upper hand! You're right about Blake. It's free history is so muddy post-Sandahl that, in agreement with Max (I'm editing this comment at a later time), it's probably not worth getting into, so I removed it. Thanks for adding the photo of the slab crux. Oct 6, 2017
Mikey Schaefer
Terrebonne, OR
  5.12+
Mikey Schaefer   Terrebonne, OR
  5.12+
Thanks for adding the beta Nathan! Hopefully the addition of more beta will help make this become a more popular free climb. The Lip would make a classic pitch if it were at any crag.

A couple notes, the Lip is definitely easier the shorter you are. Both SJ and I thought it was closer to 12+ when we did it again last year. But I wouldn't doubt it is full on 13b if you are taller than 5'3". Pretty rare that is the case! And after doing the slab again I thought it was closer to 12a/b. I could see it feeling harder if you stay high on the traverse back left. It is much easier if you step down after clipping the last bolt and foot traverse across a low dike.

Did Blake redpoint the slab pitch the same day he redpointed the lip? After reading his trip report on his blog I was under the impression that he followed that pitch on top rope and no one redpointed it (adding a bit more mud to the already muddy waters...) Sep 24, 2017