Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 12 pitches, Grade V|
|FA:||FFA: Brooke Sandahl, 1991. FFA, current variation: Mikey Schaefer, Seanjean Lee, Blake Herrington & Nathan Hadley, 2017.|
|Page Views:||3,202 total · 71/month|
|Shared By:||Nathan Hadley on Sep 3, 2017 · Updates|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
P1: 11-, same as original.
P2: Lithuanian Lip, 13b (my suggestion). Fun 11- climbing in a corner leads to a scrunchy and powerful traverse to finger locks above the lip. Lock it in, high step to the lip, grit your teeth and stab to a good lock. Keep it together on 12- moves to a small stance below the bolt ladder. Use a triple length sling to make a belay out of a high and low bolt.
P3: The new free variation of the slab pitch, which differs from how Brooke Sandahl originally freed it (up the bolt ladder, which now seems blank), moves right before the bolt ladder. Clip the higher belay bolt, move right across sloping ledges, mantel, and execute cruxy foot step ups. Move back left under a hand rail feature to the belay above the bolt ladder. 5.12.
P4: same as original P3. 11+, with a thin crux before reaching the small roof.