All Locations > Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Great Black North

The Burnt Toast

Name: The Burnt Toast
Rating: 3.2

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British

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Routes in The Great Black North

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bete Noir S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Black Toe Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Borg, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Bureau of Land Management (BLM) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Burnt Toast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Capital Outlay S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Chuana Chavaria S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Cold Feet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Datura S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Delilah S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Don't Make Me Shave You S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hang a Louie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	It's All Gone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Laugh the Past Away S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Locutus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Magus, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Pincher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Resistance is Futile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Skank to Crank S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Three Doubles S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Torch & Twang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Tout Tout de Suite S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Tower of Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Triage S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

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Type:	Sport, 55 ft (17 m)
GPS:	38.65239, -105.22439
FA:	Mark Van Horn
Page Views:	1,101 total · 5/month
Shared By:	Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2009
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: This crag may be on Private Property! Details

The access situation here is a bit murky. According to "Shelf Road Rock", the crag is likely located on state land that is leased to a local rancher. Climbers should treat this area as though it were private property. Keep a low profile, leave your dogs at home, and keep the noise down.

Per Brandon Schirm: you need a fishing or hunting license to use this crag. It's part of a trust land, so therefore if you don't pay the fee potentially you could receive a fine. On 9-12-20, the cost of a fishing license was $33.42.

Description

This pumpy number offers great pocket climbing on beautiful black stone. The route begins easily and gets steadily more difficult with height, making this line a good warm-up option for the more difficult lines in the area. This route is also located in a recessed alcove, so it gets shade a bit earlier that some of the other routes, making it a good morning option on the hotter days.

Begin atop an impressive mound of rodent feces at the base of a white, right-leaning corner. Follow the weakness up and left, then back right, to get established in the shallow open-book just left of the arete. Follow this corner on good holds, eventually moving right onto a white patch of rock with small bits of vegetation. Rest up here before embarking on the crux section. Punch straight up on cool black, pocketed limestone to a difficult, foot-intensive crux just below the anchor.