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> Blues Cliff
Number 9
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 12 votes
Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
FA: | Chris Henson |
Page Views: | 2,803 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Todd Miller on Jun 15, 2009 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
An amazing route in an amazing position. Unique climbing for Index - steep face climbing on solid quartzite holds reminiscent of the Gunks. But just look around - the Gunks don't have air and views quite like this...
Rappel in. From the 2 bolt anchor at the base of the route, climb up the corner crack through nice, smooth granite and up over a tricky bulge. From here, the character of the climb changes considerably as you leave the smooth granite and begin working your way up a steep wall through a sea of quartzite holds, placing gear where available.
Rappel in. From the 2 bolt anchor at the base of the route, climb up the corner crack through nice, smooth granite and up over a tricky bulge. From here, the character of the climb changes considerably as you leave the smooth granite and begin working your way up a steep wall through a sea of quartzite holds, placing gear where available.
Location
Although this climb lies at the upper extent of the Blues Cliff, it is perhaps best combined with routes at the Mid Wall. Use the Mid Wall approach to get to the route. At the point where the Mid Wall trail comes to the edge of the cliff and there is a nice viewpoint with a great rock to sit on, you will notice chains directly below (these are the anchors for Starfish (5.9) ).
To find the anchors for #9, continue a few more feet along the trail to the top of the stairs and the tree that has fallen on them. At this point, carefully walk left along the ledge (exposed) to the anchors. Rappel in to a ledge with a few trees and a 2 bolt anchor.
To find the anchors for #9, continue a few more feet along the trail to the top of the stairs and the tree that has fallen on them. At this point, carefully walk left along the ledge (exposed) to the anchors. Rappel in to a ledge with a few trees and a 2 bolt anchor.
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