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Routes in The Blues Cliff

Accidental Discharge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Cat Bone T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue in the Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Color of Pain, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cry Baby S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Number 9 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhythm and Bolts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Starfish T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twelve Gauge IQ T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unicorn Blues S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Written in Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chris Kalman, Alessandra Patz, Mike Patz
Page Views: 928 total, 24/month
Shared By: Chris Kalman on Sep 5, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Unicorn Blues is the extension to Cry Baby. The upper crux is not really more difficult than Cry Baby's crux, just a touch more sustained. This pitch features excellent arete climbing, and some cool bouldery sequences. A very good line!

Location

Immediately right of the splitter finger crack Black Cat Bone

Protection

10 quickdraws should do fine.

Photos

Chris Kalman  
 
Doug T - thanks dude. Sorry to have ganked em. Let's replace it in July!

Stamati - I think 12a is pretty fair. It feels a bit diff on lead (IMO). Anyway, I agree with you, bottom crux of Cry Baby is as hard or harder. Jun 7, 2017
Stamati
Bellingham, WA
  5.11c/d
Stamati   Bellingham, WA
  5.11c/d
Didn't send, just fucked around on TR, but just didn't feel the arete was any harder. It took me longer to do the Cry Baby crux. Honestly though I don't know what grades mean anymore. Jun 6, 2017
I'd like to see the original Cry Baby anchor back, with Unicorn Blues being a fun extension. I was disappointed to hear that something on my To-Do list had been made out of reach. CK, I'll gladly help reinstall it. Jun 5, 2017
Chris Kalman  
 
You can finish up Black Cat but I wouldn't recommend it. The finish is less climactic, and it also makes your rope run over a dangerously sharp edge.

...

Stig! You thought 11c/d?! Are you getting super strong or something? Even Mike Patz fell on it... The sandbag is strong with you... did you send? Jun 2, 2017
Stamati
Bellingham, WA
  5.11c/d
Stamati   Bellingham, WA
  5.11c/d
I'm not necessarily saying it should be replaced, but that saying it's an extension is not really accurate, right?

I agree with you that the arete is really good climbing and that the hardest part is the crux of Cry Baby. It makes sense to continue up the arete. I wonder if you could switch in to Black Cat and finish with the roof of that route. Jun 1, 2017
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
Once the anchor is back though, the majority of people will stop there, no matter how good the climbing above is... May 31, 2017
Chris Kalman  
 
Stamati - when I bolted the extension, I removed two decrepit anchor bolts from Cry Baby, and replaced with a single new stainless bolt for the full pitch. TBH, I found the bottom cruxes of Cry Baby as hard or harder than the upper arete; but the upper arete, IMO, is the best climbing on that pitch. So it didn't make a lot of sense to me to replace the anchor.

That said, you are the second person who has commented on the old anchor being removed. When I'm back in July, let's just put it back.

That said, I would def recommend climbing the full pitch. May 31, 2017
Stamati
Bellingham, WA
  5.11c/d
Stamati   Bellingham, WA
  5.11c/d
Not so much an extension now that the Cry Baby anchors were removed. May 30, 2017