Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chris Kalman, Alessandra Patz, Mike Patz
Page Views: 1,110 total · 19/month
Shared By: Chris Kalman on Sep 5, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details

Description

Unicorn Blues is the extension to Cry Baby. The upper crux is not really more difficult than Cry Baby's crux, just a touch more sustained. This pitch features excellent arete climbing, and some cool bouldery sequences. A very good line!

Location

Immediately right of the splitter finger crack Black Cat Bone

Protection

10 quickdraws should do fine.

Photos

Stig gles
Seattle
  5.11c/d
Stig gles   Seattle
  5.11c/d
Not so much an extension now that the Cry Baby anchors were removed. May 30, 2017
Chris Kalman
  5.12a
Chris Kalman  
  5.12a
Stamati - when I bolted the extension, I removed two decrepit anchor bolts from Cry Baby, and replaced with a single new stainless bolt for the full pitch. TBH, I found the bottom cruxes of Cry Baby as hard or harder than the upper arete; but the upper arete, IMO, is the best climbing on that pitch. So it didn't make a lot of sense to me to replace the anchor.

That said, you are the second person who has commented on the old anchor being removed. When I'm back in July, let's just put it back.

That said, I would def recommend climbing the full pitch. May 31, 2017
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
Once the anchor is back though, the majority of people will stop there, no matter how good the climbing above is... May 31, 2017
Stig gles
Seattle
  5.11c/d
Stig gles   Seattle
  5.11c/d
I'm not necessarily saying it should be replaced, but that saying it's an extension is not really accurate, right?

I agree with you that the arete is really good climbing and that the hardest part is the crux of Cry Baby. It makes sense to continue up the arete. I wonder if you could switch in to Black Cat and finish with the roof of that route. Jun 1, 2017
Chris Kalman
  5.12a
Chris Kalman  
  5.12a
You can finish up Black Cat but I wouldn't recommend it. The finish is less climactic, and it also makes your rope run over a dangerously sharp edge.

...

Stig! You thought 11c/d?! Are you getting super strong or something? Even Mike Patz fell on it... The sandbag is strong with you... did you send? Jun 2, 2017
I'd like to see the original Cry Baby anchor back, with Unicorn Blues being a fun extension. I was disappointed to hear that something on my To-Do list had been made out of reach. CK, I'll gladly help reinstall it. Jun 5, 2017
Stig gles
Seattle
  5.11c/d
Stig gles   Seattle
  5.11c/d
Didn't send, just fucked around on TR, but just didn't feel the arete was any harder. It took me longer to do the Cry Baby crux. Honestly though I don't know what grades mean anymore. Jun 6, 2017
Chris Kalman
  5.12a
Chris Kalman  
  5.12a
Doug T - thanks dude. Sorry to have ganked em. Let's replace it in July!

Stamati - I think 12a is pretty fair. It feels a bit diff on lead (IMO). Anyway, I agree with you, bottom crux of Cry Baby is as hard or harder. Jun 7, 2017
Matt Carroll
Seattle WA
Matt Carroll   Seattle WA
my 2C: bottom felt easier to me than the top, but not significantly. Clipping the first extension bolt from the stance tilted me a bit because it felt super insecure, but upon using the undercling sloper thing i reconsider my anger. I was mostly mad because the lower bolt was the one that was removed and i was able to reach that from the jug. The arete was awesome. Felt quite hard OS, but a TR elucidated the beta a bit. unless im wrong, reaching around the arete a bit at the bottom is critical to keeping the difficulty in check. nice addition to the crag! i dont think the mid anchor would prevent anyone from trying the top. Apr 2, 2019
Chris Kalman
  5.12a
Chris Kalman  
  5.12a
Regarding the ongoing debate/discussion about the removal of the Cry Baby anchor... just want to be clear, I regret pulling that anchor! I wish I were still in the area. If I were, I'd replace the mid-way anchor.

Next best thing I can do is this: I'll paypal or venmo anyone who wants to put the anchor in for the hardware cost! Wouldn't take much work... one more hole, one more bolt, and 4 mallions would do. Just let me know if you do it, and I'll refund the $.

Thanks, and sorry again for not replacing the old anchor properly the first time around. Apr 2, 2019
Matt Carroll
Seattle WA
Matt Carroll   Seattle WA
No harm no foul Chris! I’ll try to replace it at some point in the near future! Keep your bucks, this one is on the house for another nice route. Apr 2, 2019
Chris Kalman
  5.12a
Chris Kalman  
  5.12a
Cheers, Matt. Appreciate it! Apr 3, 2019