Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
GPS: 47.81993, -121.5696
FA: Chris Kalman, Alessandra Patz, Mike Patz
Page Views: 2,255 total · 16/month
Shared By: Chris Kalman on Sep 5, 2014
Admins: Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Unicorn Blues is the extension to Cry Baby. The upper crux is not really more difficult than Cry Baby's crux, just a touch more sustained. This pitch features excellent arete climbing, and some cool bouldery sequences. A very good line!

Plenty of ways to skin this cat, but here's how we originally climbed it:
1. Climb Cry Baby
2. Clip bolt, step around left to other side of arete
3. Climb easier terrain on the left side of the arete for another bolt or two.
4. Step right back around the arete when you can stand on the pretty good footholds on the right face.
5. Layback the right side of the arete to the big jug at the top.

I've heard that folks have tried it staying on the right side the whole way... That would be quite a bit harder. Not even going to hazard a guess at the grade for that.

Two notes:
1.) easily toproped from the anchor of 12 Gauge, or probably BCB. Incidentally, also a good way to get the rope onto the anchor of either of those climbs (though perhaps harder than 12 Gauge).
2.) Do be careful with the rope when you step left around the arete. The climbing out there is much easier than the rest of the pitch, so you probably won't fall. But the arete is sharp, so if you do find yourself about to pitch, try to jump back and right so your rope doesn't grind over the edge.

Location Suggest change

Immediately right of the splitter finger crack Black Cat Bone

Protection Suggest change

10 quickdraws should do fine.

Photos

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