Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Cal Folsom, David Feinberg, 90
Page Views: 1,137 total · 9/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008 with improvements by BrokenChairs ~
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details

Description

Start with a difficult crack bolder problem to the right of the obvious flake start to Twelve Gauge IQ. Climb part of that route and step over to a finger crack on the right face. Getting started in the crack is the crux. One can traverse left at the top into the sport climb Twelve Gauge IQ, or, I believe, head right to another anchor. I can't remember if this other anchor currently exists, however.

Location

A 60m rope lowers from either anchor. This and the aforementioned Twelve Gauge IQ are located on the far left side of the Blues Cliff, to the right of Accidental Discharge.

Protection

Finger-size cams and stoppers with maybe a couple of hand-size pieces. This climb used to have bolts next to the crack, but as per Chris's comment below they've been removed. Fixed anchors.

Photos

Drewsky
  5.11c
Drewsky  
  5.11c
This climb used to be bolted but as per comments below, it's been restored to a more reasonable state. Dec 30, 2008
Ol Toby
CA
  5.11c
Ol Toby   CA
  5.11c
One of the more egregious examples of crack bolting I've seen. A shame, since the climbing is quite good. A few bolts to protect the move from the stance into the crack system and to protect the finish would suffice to keep the route from being R-rated.

There is no anchor at the top of the crack system as the guidebook indicates, nor is there one out to the right, so the route culminates with the steep 'n pumpy bolted finish of 12-gauge IQ. Jun 1, 2014
Chris Kalman  
 
This route currently has no egregious bolts. The poorly placed bolts along the crack have all been chopped, and the line is as pure and beautiful as they come. I give it 4 stars myself.... The climbing is really really good. Aug 27, 2014
Would anyone be opposed to the first bolt also getting chopped? It's 8" from the finger crack as well. I don't know why it also wasn't removed. Sep 15, 2014
Ol Toby
CA
  5.11c
Ol Toby   CA
  5.11c
The first bolt should also definitely go. Nov 3, 2014