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Routes in The Blues Cliff

Accidental Discharge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Cat Bone T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue in the Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Color of Pain, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cry Baby S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Number 9 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhythm and Bolts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Starfish T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twelve Gauge IQ T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unicorn Blues S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Written in Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Matt Kearns, 1992
Page Views: 250 total, 3/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Dec 16, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Climb past bolts in a pretty orange corner to a right trending crux over a small roof at the last bolt.

Location

Rightmost bolted route on the Blues Cliff.

Protection

8 bolts and a two bolt anchor.

Photos

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Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
This climb looks kind of dirty from below but I gave it a cursory brushing on lead and one on the way down and it climbed really well after that. Unique rock yields different moves than other Index routes. It may not be a contender for the best route at Index, but it has intriguing moves and is certainly worthy of attention. There is one questionable fin of rock at the top that I pulled on but it could potentially be avoided. I replaced the one piece of anchor webbing with newer blue webbing. Anchor hardware is a little rusty but not terrible. Don't let the moss at the top deter you; all the necessary holds are clean. Mar 11, 2015