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Routes in The Blues Cliff

Accidental Discharge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Cat Bone T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue in the Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Color of Pain, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cry Baby S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Number 9 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhythm and Bolts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Starfish T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twelve Gauge IQ T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unicorn Blues S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Written in Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Greg Collum, Matt Kerns
Page Views: 1,005 total, 9/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

On the far left side of the cliff is this deceptively easy looking slab/arete that provides one of the best pitches of the 'low angle' style at Index. Meander up ramps and cracks to the slab for 20' to the first bolt. There is a tree that can be slung along the way if desired. Once on the slab proper, clip bolts and climb classy, highly textured low angle rock past a couple of cruxes, one at the bottom and another higher up.

Location

A 60m rope is needed to descend.

Protection

9 Bolts; potentially some gear for the very beginning if desired. The anchor has a unique rappel ring that should prove more than adequate so long as the webbing it's attached to is decent. See comments below.

Photos

Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
Just did this again and had forgotten how great it is. I removed some really old tat from one anchor bolt and replaced it with new tan webbing; the webbing on the other bolt is labeled 2013 so should be OK for now. Mar 11, 2015
Ol Toby
CA
  5.11
Ol Toby   CA
  5.11
Quality! Thoughtful pitch with fun tricky slab and arete balance moves. The first crux between the 2nd and 4th bolts is friction dependent and felt like 5.11, while the upper crux felt closer to 10+. No gear needed for the bottom as the first bolt can be clipped off the ledge behind the tree before committing to the arete. Aug 14, 2013