Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Blues Cliff

Accidental Discharge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Cat Bone T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue in the Face S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Color of Pain, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cry Baby S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Number 9 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhythm and Bolts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Starfish T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twelve Gauge IQ T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unicorn Blues S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Written in Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Greg Collum, Matt Kerns
Page Views: 889 total, 8/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Starts with a prominent right-tending flake and knobs. A steep beginning is followed by lower angled climbing into a corner. Climb the discontinuous bolted finger crack in the corner up to the large, blocky roof. Turn the roof via a boulder problem and continue up on steep jugs to the anchor. The route gets a .12b/c in books but is less difficult than others of the grade at Index simply because it's more straightforward. The corner and possibly the whole climb could potentially be led with gear, but most will clip the bolts. This route is a true gem and an area classic.

Location

Located on the left portion of the wall. A 60m rope lowers.

Protection

Bolts. Fixed anchors on top.

Photos

Ol Toby
CA
  5.12-
Ol Toby   CA
  5.12-
This route is really fun. Despite it's bolted nature, the dihedral climbing is high quality on beautiful stone and the roof succumbs to good beta and a few gymnastic pulls. No doubt easier than the other .12c I've tried at Index. Jul 3, 2014