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Number 9

5.10a, Trad, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 12 votes
FA: Chris Henson
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Middle Town Walls > Blues Cliff

Description

An amazing route in an amazing position. Unique climbing for Index - steep face climbing on solid quartzite holds reminiscent of the Gunks. But just look around - the Gunks don't have air and views quite like this...

Rappel in. From the 2 bolt anchor at the base of the route, climb up the corner crack through nice, smooth granite and up over a tricky bulge. From here, the character of the climb changes considerably as you leave the smooth granite and begin working your way up a steep wall through a sea of quartzite holds, placing gear where available.

Location

Although this climb lies at the upper extent of the Blues Cliff, it is perhaps best combined with routes at the Mid Wall. Use the Mid Wall approach to get to the route. At the point where the Mid Wall trail comes to the edge of the cliff and there is a nice viewpoint with a great rock to sit on, you will notice chains directly below (these are the anchors for Starfish (5.9) ).

To find the anchors for #9, continue a few more feet along the trail to the top of the stairs and the tree that has fallen on them. At this point, carefully walk left along the ledge (exposed) to the anchors. Rappel in to a ledge with a few trees and a 2 bolt anchor.

Protection

Standard rack to 2 or 3 inches. There is one protection bolt on the route. 70 meter rope needed to rappel into the route - otherwise you'll need two ropes to rappel in.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Typical holds on Starfish and #9.
[Hide Photo] Typical holds on Starfish and #9.
#9 (10a), a route on the far left side of Blues Cliff.
[Hide Photo] #9 (10a), a route on the far left side of Blues Cliff.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Todd Miller
MT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] It should be noted that the route name as I originally saw it was written as #9, however MP would not let me use the # symbol in the title of the route. Jun 15, 2009
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
[Hide Comment] These are great climbs and very unique for Index. The bulge at the bottom feels hard/awkward for 10a. Jun 15, 2009
[Hide Comment] Chris Henson did the FA, I believe. Feb 10, 2012
Devin Bishop
Granite Falls, WA
 
[Hide Comment] These climbs are dirtier than I remember. Wonder if the addition of the via ferrata nearby has lessened anyone’s interest in/knowledge of the two fine routes here. Pity. Jun 18, 2020
slim

  5.9
[Hide Comment] when i did these routes, maybe 4 years ago or so, they were super dirty then as well. i don't think they get climbed very often. Jun 18, 2020
K Go
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Bolt hangers are missing for both top anchors, nuts are still tight on the studs however. Bummer, I wanted to see what this climb was like. May 6, 2021
K Go
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] On closer reading of the book, it seems like Starfish is actually the route on skiiers left when you approach from the top, and #9 is the route on skiiers right. They only show a labeled picture of the anchors for one route and it's labeled #9 but it's the same anchors I used when I thought I was on starfish. Some pictures people posted on the Starfish page looking down the route are consistent with what I climbed but this seems backwards from the book. May 19, 2021
Scott K
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] In comparison to the 10a corner crack that punted me out all day, both Starfish and #9 felt like 5.7-8 hero climbing (although I may have meandered off route on #9 due to very bushy cracks that didn't seem like they could possibly be part of the climb). Less than vertical, with great holds and feet everywhere. Dirty? Sure, its mid-March. Did it matter? Nope. Just fun, flowy and amazing position way high above the valley floor. Mar 18, 2024