Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Second Buttress

Angles Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back for Seconds T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Big Top project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Chucky Cheese T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnny Rotten T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Journey through Gwondonaland T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left End Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mathematical Progressions T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Needs a Bolt T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Slap Happy S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Whatever T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 241 total, 2/month
Shared By: John Peterson on May 30, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Left End Corners is an excellent outing on the far left side of the second buttress. This can be done at either 5.6 or 5.8, depending on the precise line. I'll describe the 5.8 line - the 5.6 line goes left on the second pitch and avoids the final corner (Resom).

P1: Climb up easy rock about 50' to a big ledge.

P2: Go right to a nice crack - Malloy incorrectly shows Chuck E Cheese going up this crack in the photo. The hardest part is getting started (5.7 or so). You can stay near the right edge of the face up higher for some excellent climbing. Belay at a large ledge (100').

P3: Climb an easy gully on the left. After about 60', strike out right to an obvious corner (the Resom Dihedral), and follow this to a wall at the top (crux), 180'.

Location

Take the trail to the left side of the buttress. Move left to the edge of the rock before a minor buttress left of the main one - a large dead log marks the start.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

El Andy
El Portal, CA
El Andy   El Portal, CA
Hi!
I think I left a 0.5 BD cam somewhere on the last pitch on 10/9. If you run across if before I can get out there, I would love to get it back. You can email me at esparza dot ar at gmail dot com. Thanks! Oct 9, 2016
I don't set an additional belay - there's no problem topping out from the big ledge. Jan 18, 2014
Kyle Judson
Colorado
Kyle Judson   Colorado
John, when you climb Resom Dihedral to finish, do you set up a belay at the bottom of the dihedral or belay from the spacious ledge after pitch 2? I've only ever done the 5.6 finish. Sep 15, 2011
Right - as I stated you can keep this at 5.6 by staying left on P2 and P3. Not sure it's worth having two different routes in the database is all. Jun 2, 2009
TuFF GonG
gunnison Colorado
 
TuFF GonG   gunnison Colorado
 
The last pitch you show is actually a variation called ransom dihedral. Left end corners ascends the easy 5.6 dihedral to the left. Jun 2, 2009